Browsing: Portugal & Spain

Seville-Tappas & Wine Tour

February21
We only had one evening in Seville and so we very carefully considered our options. My husband did the research and thought our best bet was to be with someone who had extensive experience with the best local restaurants in the area. Michaela from “Devour Tours” not only had this experience, she successfully answered each and every one of our questions. On top of this, she was fun, warm, hospitable and is from a city which is a 2 1/2 drive away from our home in North America! She was the perfect host and tour leader.
We met in  a public square a short walk from our hotel. Michaela briefed us that we would be visiting examples of three tapas styles in this order: Traditional, Modern and Fusion Tapas.
20180111_191829
Stop one was at the bodega Maestro Marcelino on Calle Hernando Colón. 9.
20180111_192052
A bodega is a small food shop
20180111_192218
that may also sell sherry, vermouth or wine.
20180111_192309
Here we enjoyed a selection of a selection of superbly cured meats: Mojama, chorizo, chicharrones and caña de lomo
20180111_191853
that had been aged on site.
20180111_192321
In addition to Montadito de lomo (a grilled pork loin sandwich). Our libation of choice was a sweet red vermouth on tap.
20180111_195732

 For modern tapas we visited Las Theresas 0n Calle Santa Teresa.

20180111_195817

I thought that it was ironic that we sampled “modern” tapapas here because the restaurant in the Santa Cruz neighbourhood was the second oldest in Seville, originating in 1870.

20180111_195826

Michaela noted that we were now in the Jewish section of old Seville and the importance of acorn-fed Iberian ham (Jamón ibérico de bellota).

20180111_200531

We enjoyed the amazing ham with a creamy aged sheep cheese accompanied by a glass of dry manzanilla sherry and then another glass of amontillado.

I asked what I thought was an obvious question: “Why was ham featured so prominently in a Jewish neighbourhood?” She explained that after to Spanish Inquisition, Jews proved that they had converted to Christianity by publicly eating the meat forbidden by Jewish culinary rules. We were fascinated.

20180111_202140

As we walked to our next location, Michaela suggested we make note of the square of three crosses, pictured here. She indicated that the neighbourhood once had a high crime rate and that this square was particularly noisy. Interestingly, once the community erected the crosses, the crime and noise subsided. It was anecdotes like this that made Michaela the perfect host.

20180111_203019

Our final stop for fusion tapas was at Vinería San Telmo on Paseo de Catalina de Ribera for a selection of hot-off-the-grill tapas made with the freshest market ingredients.

IMG_20180112_122511_406

When this arrived at the table, I was content as we had eaten so much already but no….this was the amuse bouche before the eclectic tapas started to arrive.

20180111_203510

First up were these enormous prawns.

20180111_204611

Next was grilled pork belly on pumpkin puree

20180111_205946_001

and last but not least: Oxtail spring rolls. All three small plates were absolutely exceptional.

20180111_202741_001

The amazing food was accompanied by a tasting of three modern style local wines: D.O. Sierras de Malaga-Botani, V.T. de Cadiz-Barbazul and D.O. Rioja-Sonsierra Crianza.

IMG_20180112_130313_905

We didn’t want our time to end but Michaela had to get home to her boyfriend and our other new friend (a cricket playing Australian heading to Britain) had to tend to his sick wife who tried to start the tour with us but had to head home.

Upon reflection, we thought that this evening was the best of our sojourn, For sure the tastiest, if nothing else.

Kath’s quote: “Sharing food has always had a central place in civilized societies; it’s no accident that so many of our cultural, religious and patriotic rituals are involved with eating”. -Ruth Reichl

12651110_1740963536125756_6992308158383739471_n

Love never fails.

 

 

Trip Report-Day Five, Seville Spain

February20

IMG_20180111_083416_969

20180111_093347

We decided not to take the toll highway so navigating the country roads was a wee bit taxing.

20180111_095842

20180111_095828

We stopped at one point to take pictures in each direction of this beautiful valley. The landscape reminded us of the hills of Tuscany.

But the views of the countryside from the car were worth the extra trouble.

IMG_20180111_104308_255

Just before we turned onto the highway to Seville, we saw this scene which quite frankly astounded us!

The highway up to Spain was direct and fast but navigating the streets of old Seville was frustrating.

To top it off, when we finally found our hotel, we discovered that we had left our passports in the car. D walked back to the car to fetch them.

IMG_20180111_134824_600

As I waited for D’s return I took this picture through our hotel front door to the cathedral.

20180111_140358

20180111_140709

This was the view from our room!

IMG_3947

The room was teensy. One wall was immediately to the left and the window immediately to the right, but we were delighted with its location.

IMG_3948

IMG_3949

20180111_150644

We had a quick lunch of patatas bravas and paella for 2. I thought that it as too expensive at 36 Euros and I was not overly impressed with it or the potatoes. But all of our meals couldn’t be home runs!

20180111_161106

D and I had thought that the Cathedral was the third largest Gothic cathedral in the world behind St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s in London (both of which we have visited) but as I look at a brochure from the cathedral now, it states that with the dimensions of 126 m length, 83 m wide, 27 m high and the 96 m of the Giralda tower, the Seville Cathedral is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world.

The most fascinating aspect of the building itself was the fact that in 1184 it was built as a mosque. It was consecrated as a cathedral in 1248 and the construction of the Gothic architecture took place from 1434 – 1517.

20180111_161304

IMG_3952

We were definitely impressed with the grandeur of the building but what I especially loved were the tiny details, like the three cherub angels above.

IMG_20180111_172142_171

The vision of St. Anthony by Murillo.

IMG_20180111_172427_523

The tomb of Christopher Columbus by Arturo Melida.

IMG_20180111_172538_175

The crucifix.

20180111_161458

Clerical vestments.

IMG_3951

The Giralda Tower was designed by Ben Basso also in the 12th century.

IMG_20180120_131638_386

IMG_20180120_131918_463

20180111_194923

The night views of the tower were also exquisite.

IMG_20180111_172321_937

20180111_165153

The orange tree courtyard dates back to the 12th century. We could not believe this quiet sanctuary was smack in the centre of this bustling city.

We took a Devour tappas and wine tour that evening. Stay tuned.

Kath’s quote: “A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral”. -Antoine de Saint-Exupery

tuscany6-38

Love never fails.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Algarvian Trip Report-Day Four, Part Three, Beach Lunch

February16

IMG_3923

IMG_3924

IMG_3926

IMG_3928

After our morning excursion to Lagos, we decided to have our lunch back at Praia de Alvor.The pics above of our beautiful beach walk.

IMG_3931

Called a snack bar/restaurant; we loved the beach location,

IMG_3934

IMG_20180110_142222_239

the open patio and the food!

IMG_3938

D had a shellfish salad that was chock full of shrimp. It was served with a cocktail/mayo sauce that I recalled from a Portuguese restaurant that used to be on Portage Ave. back home.

IMG_3939

IMG_3940

I was over the moon with my selection of seafood pasta. It was simply prepared with garlic, lemon and olive oil and had plenty of clams and shrimp. With a dusting of Parmesan, s&p, a bit more olive oil it was SENSATIONAL!

Unfortunately when it was time to pay up for our lunch and beer, I realized I had left my money in the knapsack in the car. D briskly walked back to the car and then drove to the restaurant.

IMG_3942

IMG_3943

IMG_3944

IMG_3946

There was a beautiful sunset that evening. I took these pics right from the elevator lobby on our floor. We decided to lay low that night as we were off to Seville the next morning.

Kath’s quote: “The ocean stirs the heart, inspires the imagination and brings eternal joy to the soul.”-Author Unknown

beach-heart

Love never fails.

Algarve Trip Report, Day Four, Part Two, Lagos

February15

After returning from the cliffs of Lagos we quite accidently discovered that Lagos had a walled city; so we spent the rest of the morning wandering around there.

IMG_3866

IMG_3867

This cheerful little building was found just inside the gate. We imagined that it was a muster station for guards at one point in history.

IMG_3868

IMG_3872

IMG_3874

IMG_3877

I saw the village church as soon as we entered the gates. It became more and more beautiful as it came into view.

IMG_3869

We were impressed by the tile on the outside of the homes.

IMG_3882

Lagos Harbour.

IMG_3883

I spotted another one of my favourite Algarvian trees.

IMG_3884

We came upon this beautiful sculpture. I could not determine the name of the piece or the sculptor but I was very fond of it.

IMG_3885

We stopped in for refreshment at a beautiful pastry shop right off the square.

IMG_3886

D couldn’t get enough of the Pastis Natal and

IMG_3887

I loved the coconut cookie that I discovered.

IMG_3894

We appreciated the location and beauty of this old timer.

IMG_3905

It appeared to us to be inhabited by the flowers on the railing.

 IMG_3914

IMG_3910

We appreciated the pedestrian only streets that wound their way around the old town and we loved that they rolled out red carpets for their guests.

IMG_3915

The merchants of Lagos sold a variety of items. We even happened upon this surf shop. We enjoyed watching the surfers in their wet-suits on Alvor Beach just down from our hotel.

Kath’s quote: “You can’t stop the waves but you can learn how to surf.”-John Kabat-Zinn

IMG_3890

Love never fails.

 

Algarve Portugal, Trip Report, Day Four, Part One, Cliffs of Lagos

February14

IMG_20180110_093151_183

The sun on this day was late showing itself and I got some pics of the mist on the Alvor cliffs.

IMG_3832

IMG_3835

IMG_3836

We had hoped it would clear and when it did, we set of for Lagos. We found Lagos easily and drove down the single lane to the park at the cliffs.

IMG_3837

IMG_3838

IMG_3858

I included a couple of pics of my husband D. Having a person in the picture gives you some perspective of the magnitude of this glorious place. Look at the person in the picture just above.

IMG_3840

IMG_3828

My daughter hiked the Grand Canyon in January and pictures without the sea in the background reminded me of there.

IMG_3841

IMG_3843

IMG_3844

The cliffs and grottos were formed over time by the ocean continuously battering the rock hills on shore.

IMG_3848

We were surprised to see wildflowers everywhere. Back home these would not make an appearance for months and months. I understand that wild figs cover the hills in late spring. A sight I would love to see.

IMG_3851

IMG_3852

IMG_3854

This was one of my favouite pics. Imagine the challenge of putting down roots in rocky soil, forever battered by the wind and yet standing so majestically?

IMG_3829

IMG_3856

Other trees in the vicinity weren’t so lucky.

IMG_3857

The lighthouse was closed to the public but there was a single vendor selling her woolens by the gate. She was a talented craftsperson and I admired her savvy, braving the wind all on her own.

IMG_3860

In the top right of this picture, you can see the town of Alvor where we were staying.

IMG_3863

IMG_3864

We assumed by the monument above, that loved ones had lost their lives on the cliffs. We paid our respects.

Before heading back to Alvor, we spent some time in the ancient walled city of Lagos. See next post.

Kath’s quote: “The waves hit the cliff with more intensity than the shore, because the ocean knows the cliff has that masculine intensity which won’t complain about her feminine energy.” ― Nityananda Das

IMG_3900

Love never fails.

 

« Older EntriesNewer Entries »