How many readers remember when Corydon Ave. was Little Italy? In my humble opinion those were the good old days. Then the village went through a Sushi phase and now, I am happy to say, there seems to be a new era of ethnic restaurants popping up. The Georgian restaurant Saperavi for one and Bisita (837 Corydon Ave.) serving excellent Philipino food.

There were four of us celebrating a sibling’s birthday so we were perfectly comfortable sharing plates. We split an appetizer of Lumpia Shanghai. Lumpia are mini spring rolls and are a mainstay of Philippine cuisine. These were chock full of minced pork and veggies, then drizzled with a sweet soy sauce and sriracha mayo. We were off to a great start.

Three dishes arrived at the same time to share as our entrée. Beef “Pares” Short Rib which is one of the most famous street foods in the Philippines. The ribs were seasoned in a special blend of spices until perfectly tender, served atop a bed of garlic sautéed bok choy and then garnished with crispy fried onions. Pancit is the Philippine’s version of chow mein.

Pancit is the Philippine’s version of chow mein. Our Classic Pancit was adorned with crispy pork belly, grilled chicken and sautéed shrimp.

My favourite was Lechon Kawaii where once again pork belly was brined, then fried to a delicate crispiness resulting in a treat that was crunchy on the outside but meltingly tender within.

As a treat, owner Roddy Seradilla, also brought us a serving of Pork Belly Sisig. He explained that the dish was typical of food that you would serve to your friends when they assembled in your backyard for an afternoon or evening of drinking beer. In this case pork belly was marinated in a sour liquid, braised with aromatics and spices and then roasted to super crispiness. The concoction was delicious on its own and sensational with the addition of a perfectly cooked quail egg.

Since we were celebrating a birthday, dessert was in order. We chose a sampler of Buko pie, Ube cake (made with purple yams) and Leche Flan. All delicious.

If you are heading to Corydon Ave, and are looking for a surprising alternative to sushi, I highly recommend you stop in at Bisita.

Kath’s quote: “Pork fat rules!” Emeril Lagasse

Love never fails.

I felt badly that I had missed their anniversary. When they married over thirty years ago, there was a very small gathering of parents and siblings but we were one of two couple of friends. I realized that the significance of my visiting on that weekend was not lost on them when R said sincerely “Thanks for being at our wedding” for I stood beside M as her maid of honour. The night of their anniversary, I was at another restaurant across town with my friends from FBC 2016. They were at a little spot in their neighbourhood. The next evening they cooked filet mignon’s with all the trimmings. So my opportunity to celebrate with them came on my last evening in town. They suggested Ascari Enoteca, not far from where they lived. They had visited there before. Ascari Enoteca is named for famous Italian race car driver Alberto Ascari. The Enoteca (wine depository) was celebrating half price wine night and the little spot was jammed with Monday night diners. In fact, I could hardly follow our conversation over the din. This did not embarrass me as friends R & M are half a year older than me and our conversations often centre on a part of our body which is no longer working. M had told me about an item from the list “In Compagnia” (things to share) that they liked to order. Broccolini Fritti was lightly battered broccolini crowned with lemon zest and pecorino cheese. The batter was light and salty like a tempura batter and the citrus and cheese was so satisfying that I tipped the serving bowl onto my side plate and scooped it up with a spoon. R made me perfectly comfortable with my brazen table manners by saying that a friend of his had done exactly the same. When we each ordered our pasta, R selected another sharable of Cavoletti di Bruxelles. The shaved Brussel sprouts were tossed with guanciale (an Italian style bacon made from pork jowls), garlic chips and toasted walnuts. They too were so satisfying that I plan on getting my mandolin out and shaving some Brussel sprouts sometime very soon. M chose a salad of charred romaine hearts that she was happy to share with us. Dubbed Insalata Americana, the boats of blackened romaine were filled with oven-dried tomato, tiny slivers of radish and a creamy oregano dressing. Sunflower seeds and fried shallots added extra crunch. I was eager to have a taste of M’s Linquine alla Puttanesca with the traditional ingredients of tomato, anchovy, caper and olives. She liked the unusual addition of smoked cod. My taste of the latter revealed an overwhelming salty and smoky taste. I was glad that I had not been tempted by her choice and tucked into the evening’s special of Tajarin Ai Fungi. My favourite pastas are lightly tossed with a few simple ingredients reminiscent of our recent time in Tuscany. Fresh and delicate Tajarin noodles (like spaghettini but square not round) had been tossed with beurre fondue (melted butter), tarragon, chanterelles and “heavens be praised” truffle oil!  We have travelled through many regions of Italy but not yet Piedmont where Tajarin noodles are a specialty. Each spin of the pasta was concluded with a spearing of chanterelles. The fungi (mushrooms) complemented the musky dab of truffle oil. Simply divine. We washed everything down with a wine of R’s choosing-a light and slightly acidic Basadone from Casetto Di Verduno. The wine also hails from Piedmont, so it was a tremendous choice. Upon further research, this is what I discovered: “The Barbera d’Alba label has a drawing of poppies which are called Basadone in local dialect (papavero in Italian). Basadone in dialect also means a little kiss – local tradition has it that Pelaverga is an aphrodisiac!” We concluded the evening with a lemon pudding and three spoons, remembering a time when they as a couple took me under their wings and provided companionship after a bumpy time in my life. Although my timing was a couple of days off for this dinner, it was a lovely celebration of their love, marriage and our long lasting friendship. Kath’s quote: “You may have the universe if I may have Italy”.-Giuseppe Verdi Love never fails.

When I was a child my Mom would make donuts on a fairly regular basis so that my older brother could hand them out to fellow newspaper carriers. The big tarp covered box where the newspapers would be dropped off was in our yard. Over the years, my definition of a doughnut became a Tim Horton’s version. Now I am happy to say, donuts like Mom use to make are making a comeback. I might add, with some fun improvements.

“Bronuts” is the creation of brothers Brett & Dylan (assisted by wife/sister-in-law Meghan) and I have a hunch that a family recipe may have something to do with the success of their Exchange District shop. I understand that the place is jammed each morning with hipsters who work nearby picking up their tea and/or coffees with the sustenance that a donut can provide.

Bronuts don’t use artificial colouring or flavours and they make all the toppings, jam, and custard from scratch. I might add that they go easy on the sugar which is unexpected at first bite. That is what allows the yeasty dough taste to share the stage. I couldn’t make up mind the day that I stood in front of the display case in their sparkling shop, so I ordered one of each to go.

I had a gang over for coffee that evening so I had an ulterior motive.

The vanilla glaze tasted most like my Mom’s. Everyone had their own preference from the myriad of toppings. The pumpkin cheesecake donut with cream cheese glaze was a hit

as was their most popular peanut butter and jam. My sister declared that it tasted like a homemade sandwich.

The peach pecan fritter was my personal favourite

and chocolate lovers leaned towards the chocolate cake donut called Margot or the cookies and cream one.

One of the brothers told me how they typically sell out of product in the early afternoon which means that they can start fresh in their kitchen for the next day. So when you visit, keep this in mind.

Kath’s quote: “Donuts. Is there anything they can’t do”? -Matt Groening

Love never fails.

 

 

I have waited for what seemed like eons for the time to come when I could visit Clementine at 123 Princess St. in the Exchange District. I spotted Owner Chef Adam Donnelly who I have long admired for his tapas restaurant –Segovia, as I sat down. As with Segovia he is teamed up with his wife Caroline Konrad. They have added extended family members Reya Konrad and Chris Gama for this venture.

Some say “anything worth doing is worth the wait” and in this case I would whole heartedly agree! We were perched at a high table in the cosy lower level as every other table was full with other enthusiastic diners. From this vantage I could spot another Winnipeg Chef (a very good sign) arrive to sample Chef Donnelly’s fare.

My lunch mate groaned when she found out that they were out of waffles that day (with blueberries, pecans, maple syrup, maple cream and rhubarb compote) and settled upon the porridge. This was not just any porridge-made with almond milk, apple butter, kiwi, blueberries and pecans; she was so satisfied that she took half home for her next breakfast.

I on the other hand, went past my satiation point and ate the entire order of Fried Chicken Toast. The chicken was so crunchy on the outside, moist and tender on the inside and beautifully balanced with pickled carrots and a maple drizzle that I would moan as I cut into another bite. If you are like me and love sweet and salty tastes as well a variety of textures, you will love this dish.

I was prompted ahead of time that the Braised Bacon Benedict was fabulous, as well as their Home Fried Potatoes. Thinking about Segovia’s Patata Bravas that I have long loved, I ordered the home fries for “dessert”. Actually, I sampled a fabulous bite and then took the rest home to my husband as compensation for not being able to join me on the visit. The Salsa Negra and Lime Mayo take the humble fried potato and elevate them to a starring role!

Kath’s quote:

“When you wake up in the morning, Pooh,” said Piglet at last, “what’s the first thing you say to yourself?”
“What’s for breakfast?” said Pooh. “What do you say, Piglet?”
“I say, I wonder what’s going to happen exciting today?” said Piglet.
Pooh nodded thoughtfully. “It’s the same thing,” he said.”
― A.A. Milne

Love never fails.

 

Winnipeg is such a food-centric community that its Chefs are given celebrity status. Case in point: I have been following the career of Chef Michael Schafer since he medalled in the Gold Plates competition and re-opened a beautiful restaurant at The Forks, that being Sydney’s. Since then he has birthed Rudy’s, a downtown urban bistro and Sous Sol a funky basement restaurant that is as comfortable as being invited to a friend’s family room.

I was delighted when I recently received an invitation to a “concierge” evening at Sydney’s. When I rsvp to manager Carlos, he said “Food Musings, ah yes, Michael Schafer has been a fan of your blog for years”. Michael confirmed this when I finally got to meet him in real life, walking from the executive bus he had hired to escort us from Sydney’s to Sous Sol.

Michael has appointed another Chef Michael, namely Michael Robins to head up the kitchen at Sydney’s. I had met Chef Robins when I was writing a story about Sous Sol. He is another talented grad of the Red River College’s Culinary program. Winnipeg is blessed with so much gastronomic talent from the college. But, I am getting a head of myself.

As bloggers, Instagrammers, Free Press writers and concierges from a number of key Winnipeg Hotels assembled, we sipped on a fine sparkling white wine and the food started arriving.

Poached shrimp in a sweet chili and mango sauce and vegetable wonton with sesame dressing were both tasty but we (accompanied by Sister #3), were most impressed by the smoked gold eye crepe with caper aioli and pickled mustard seed. The seeds popped in our mouths like caviar. We agreed that it was the little things like those mustard seeds that elevates cuisine from “delicious” to “sensational”.

I snuck away to peruse the recent décor updates to the dining room. The goal was to relax the ambience a bit to make Sydney’s more appropriate for a variety of dining experiences. I think that the revamp is right on the money and have been encouraging friends to give the dining room a try for their Friday night dinner dates.

Once we had been escorted to our tables in the dining room more appetizers were set in front of an enthusiastic bunch. We loved the Manitoba trapist cheese selections and the Chef’s ode to McNuggets with clever duck sausage morsels to dip into honey mustard.

My personal favourite was the Beef Tartare with mini grilled cheese triangles for scooping up the silky meat. This was all served before we made personal selections from our customized menus.

Sister #3 chose the Charred Beets as her starter and she swapped tastes with me and my Mango Peanut Salad. Both wonderful.

The Tomato Bisque was also deemed delicious (must have been the bacon)!

A cleansing sorbet arrived and then we were ready for our entrees. Artic Char with lentils, greens, almonds and salmoriglio (a southern Italian condiment) was chosen by our table neighbours and they were happy to let us feast with our eyes.

Sister #3 loved her choice of Duck Breast with pickled butternut squash, golden curry and baby potatoes.

I am crazy about truffles and ordered the New York steak for just that reason. I was delighted with the squash and garlic mashed potatoes. The New York was perfection-pan fried in what I suspected was a nub of butter, just like my Dad always prepared steaks when I was growing up. He managed what became Maple Leaf Foods in Brandon and he knew his beef, so this is the ultimate compliment in my mind.

Thinking that I would love to go home and get into my stretchy pants, we were escorted by Schafer to his pet project-Sous Sol. He described how he distressed the space and furniture himself prior to opening. I love the cozy lower level space and would have been satisfied with a night cap, but Chef Michael Robins had been busy putting out some more satisfying nibbles.

Including the most divine lemon tarts I have ever tasted AND the piece de resistance of

mini crème brulees!

The evening from start to conclusion was a culinary treat and I am enthusiastic to return to both spots very soon (especially because D had plans that evening and was disappointed that he couldn’t join me).

Kath’s quote: “If you are a chef, no matter how good a chef you are, it’s not good cooking for yourself; the joy is in cooking for others – it’s the same with music”. -will.i.am

Sydney’s heart shaped crostini!

Love never fails.