In online slang, “edge” generally refers to being bold, provocative, or  standing out! And our experience at “The Edge of the World” was exactly that.

Hugo does not have a long family history on Isla and yet I believe he understands that when you have an opportunity to work with all that Isla has to offer: its beauty, its seafood, its fruits and juices, its fresh herbs…you can create fresh inspired cuisine.

When asked about the origin of the name of this new venture, he shared this. “It’s from a graphic novel I was writing a while back as a kid and it referred to a bar that featured wonders through cutting edge technology that blurred the lines between reality and fantasy. And the location fit perfectly.”

Hugo started out as a mixologist, working alongside many prominent chefs. Often he was consulted to marry cocktail flavours with certain dishes. It was this experience that prompted his wonder of food creation. Each course that evening was either balanced by his signature cocktails or contrasted by them. More about that later.

On the night that we visited, two other tables arrived after us. The first thing that everybody does is take pictures of the view and the surroundings, us included.

Hugo indicates that he has a special relationship with the church in order to avail his guests of the setting. He is already planning for wedding celebrations that will take place on the property. Just imagine…

I now understand why there is nothing written down. How do you keep a record of your imagination? Hugo does say that he has a notebook with some cocktail notes in it. The rest is spontaneous and part of his creative process.

We started with a refreshing pear cocktail to accentuate our poached pear salad. I was so busy writing down the ingredients of the fabulous salad that I did not get a chance to note all the cocktail ingredients. But I do know that it was light and refreshing and the relationship between the cocktail and the salad was perfectly balanced as Hugo intended.

The poached pears were accompanied by chopped peppers and carrots and then crowned with a pepita brittle (like a peanut brittle but with pumpkin seeds). I poured every drop of the champagne and thyme dressing over top. In fact, when Hugo’s assistant Javier was clearing the plates, I was sipping the remains of the salad dressing in the bottom of my bowl with a spoon.

My favourite dish of the night was the Shrimp Ceviche (Penny had chicken). I really enjoy all kinds of ceviche, ever since I first tasted the dish on Cozumel decades ago, but I will admit that sometime the intensity of the lime juice is overpowering. (It must be intense in order to “cook” the seafood). But a combination of citrus juices (pineapple, orange and lime) can have the same effect. This is what Hugo discovered for his version of ceviche. In addition, there were tiny cubes of fresh coconut mixed with the abundant shrimp which provided a satisfying crunch to the dish.

Penny who is allergic to seafood was served chicken filets that had been marinated in beer, pineapple and jerk spices. Adorning the chicken were a variety of finely chopped vegetables that retained a smokiness but were not too spicy. A silky beet and plantain puree accompanied.

With two different appetizers came two different cocktails. Mine with the shrimp had the flavouring of a pina colada (coconut and pineapple) without the heaviness of the cream. Penny’s to balance with the chicken, appeared to have Aperol or a similar orange flavouring.

I truly could have stopped eating right at that point. I am just thinking ahead for my next visit to “The Edge of the World” and I would be perfectly content with the cocktails, the starters and the ambiance by the ocean and the church.

But onward we went. My entree was marinated tuna in a soy and citrus sauce. It was very pleasant but I must admit that the plantain puree on my plate was the highlight for me. Hugo makes all his own syrups and the one that flavoured the plantain was a cardamon elixir.  

Our accompanying cocktails were scientifically planned: Hugo said that because our entrees were so “lipid” rich, he planned something to contrast the meals, so he chose a more acidic drink which included St Germaine ( a French liqueur made from elderflowers) and rosemary syrup. He called the libation his version of a “sour”. I wondered then, if there was an egg white froth on the perimeter of the glass.  He replied that he had made the froth with chick peas! Go figure. I asked if there was any anise or ouzo in the concoction because I could swear there was a suggestion of licorice. That is probably why I liked it so much, in fact, enough to consume the designated driver’s glass as well.

Penny was delighted with her flank steak marinated in pineapple and mezcal, the asparagus spears and the mole enchiladas that made up her plate. She exclaimed that it was all unexpected and absolutely delicious and that the mole had just a little kick at the end.  

We hand to cry “uncle” at dessert time. Hugo suggest he provide two spoons for the chocolate cake bottomed flan. I don’t know if this is a common after dinner treat in Mexico but I have only tasted plain flans. Hugo’s version was so scrumptious that we split it easily.  

We didn’t have the same luck with the accompanying cocktails. It looked like a delicious version of the chocolate flan in a glass! I say “looked” because I couldn’t even manage a sip.

Hugo spends so much time engaging all three tables in conversation that I don’t know how he manages to put all the finishing touches on the dishes too. He says though that he gets in at around 9 am and walks home around eleven. I would imagine that his many syrups and sauces keep him prepping all day long. That is the degree of effort that must go into a food experience of this kind. If we were using a star rating system, I would give Hugo full marks!

Kath’s quote: “A great chef turns simple ingredients into unforgettable experiences. Cook with the heart, and the world will taste the difference.”-Authour unknown

Love never fails.

Casa Will Marcella is quirky, there is no doubt about that. From the street you enter down a long hall and the lives of the neighbours are apparent. But as soon as you unlook the front door and make your way past a landing that I understand is going to be made into a work station, the little sanctuary is perfect. I don’t mean to say perfectly quiet, as the every day sounds of the neighbours travel right up to your open windows. I opened as many windows as I could reach to let the breeze and those very sounds become a part of my stay.

This floor is where most of your living space is, with a self contained bathroom (with a bathtub!), kitchen, dining/work area, comfortable sectional couch that morphs into a bed and a separate bedroom. There are so many windows that the walls virtually open up to the outside and create that wonderful indoor/outdoor living.

But if that wasn’t enough outdoor space, a staircase/ladder leads you to the top floor with views of other rooftops in every direction. There are plenty of electrical units up there and the wifi works great. There is a love seat and 2 comfortable chairs.

There is even a little barbeque! I spent hours up there.

If you are a sunrise watcher like me, you have an unobstructed view of the rising sun from the roof or if you are a little bit lazy one morning, from the bedroom.

There are overhead fans in the living area and two air conditioning units as well. And if you are so inclined (I am not) there are two huge televisions.

The kitchen is equipped with a full sized fridge, hotplate, portable oven and every single kitchen appliance you can think of! I have an extremely well-appointed kitchen back home and unit #3 at CWM has even more gadgets than me.

There is a rotisserie for the oven, an electric can opener if you struggle with the manual ones, a brand new immersion blender, an internal meat thermometer, an airtight butter keeper, travel mug and a martini shaker!

In the bathroom you will find first aid items, high end hair styling products, a hair dryer, mosquito spray and suntan lotion.

In the bedroom there are plenty of hangers and shelves to place your everyday items. There is even an electric steam handheld iron! There are privacy shades to hold back the morning sun and great linens on a pillow top mattress.

The cleanliness is top drawer and even better, it is easy to maintain yourself with glistening porcelain floor and wall tiles.

The location is steps from the malecon in one direction and one short end block to Hidalgo and yet I heard no late night music or traffic sounds. That is because that section of road is a dead end.

Now the steps might be a challenge for some. You definitely do not want to have too much to drink or have too big a load to carry in your arms. But if you are careful, the stairs are actually a treat because it provides with separate areas if you happen to have a roommate.

The family that are the local landlords and cleaners are very attentive.  

There are brand new backpack/beachchairs that I availed myself of to watch the sunset from North Beach.

I loved all the little artistic touches. They made my stay even that much more enjoyable!

Kath’s quote: “Home is the nicest word there is.” – Laura Ingalls Wilder

Love never ends.

Have you ever experienced when your body decides that it needs a break and you weren’t conscious that it did? I have been having a lovely time on Isla Mujeres. Our little apartment has lovely neighbours. It is in a great location in Centro, walking distance to everything you might need. Recently, I was invited to stay for an overnight at Villa Makax. Oh my gosh, it was exactly the break that I needed.

When you take the cab ride to Sac Bajo you suddenly realise that you are seeing less traffic on the road and less people overall. Once you pull into their horseshoe driveway, you feel like you have travelled to a new dimension. You hear the birds, the windchimes and the gentle lull of the waves.

Lindell one of the owners of the property led me on a short tour of the property including beach access, their wonderful swimming pool and even their own beautiful home on the property.

She also showed me the common area spaces where guests can enjoy a little shade or gather in the evening under twinkle lights. It seemed a perfect rental to host a larger group, giving families their own private space but also a fun time accumulating around the pool or on the private beach for group activities.

I drop some things off in the refrigerator, changed into my bathing suit and walked the white sandy beach in both directions.

Unpacking was a breeze as there is so much well thought out space including a hutch with cubbies for everything to be easily stored away.

There was plenty of room in the bathroom to hang my toiletry bag. I had already showered, but that area was deep and spacious with great hot and cold water pressure. (Which also can be a rarity on the island).

I had some writing to do, so I fixed a refreshment and a snack and set up my laptop on my private patio. The wifi works great and there are outlets for plugging in and recharging everywhere. Even having to concentrate on writing wasn’t taxing as I was in the perfect set up.

I had brought some leftovers for my dinner that evening because I didn’t want to leave the property. It had a lovely little but well appointed kitchen with a propane stove top, toaster oven, microwave, water decanter, coffee maker and best of all paper towels! Since the villas are on Sac Bajo with not an abundance of restaurants, you could easily fix your own meals in the facilities.

That evening, I crawled into the huge and cozy bed to read. A reading light was provided on each side of the bed which is also such a rarity on the island. The surroundings were so tranquil that I fell into a rejuvenating sleep.

Sleeping in a palapa on the beach is now an item that I can check off of my bucket list!

The comfortable temperatures meant that I wasn’t desperate to get into the swimming pool which is typically the case for me. Had it been warmer, I could imagine myself pulling a lounger into the shallow area to catch some sun but stay cool by dipping my toes into the water. The pool area was well stocked with noodles and floatie devices, so it was very tempting to splash around.

What I loved most about Villa Makax were all the quaint personal touches adorning each palapa. There were art pieces and finishes that were lovingly thought out. It made me feel like I got to know owners Lindell & Steve that much better, in witnessing the things they think are beautiful and precious.

All too soon I had to head back to Centro, missing the sounds of the birds and the lapping sea. My stay was absolutely tranquil and just the break that my body, mind and soul required.

Kath’s quote: “We have forgotten what rocks and plants still know – we have forgotten how to be – to be still – to be ourselves – to be where life is here and now”. -Eckhart Tolle

Love never fails.

When a friend of mine knew that I was heading to Isla Mujeres for the first time in 2005, he said “We loved going to the island in the 1980s. We hung out at Rolandi’s right on the main street. That place was hopping!” In between his time on the island and the start of my time, there was a span of 20 years. Add to that the 20 consecutive years I have visited the island (except for Covid of course). I visited Rolandis (named by its founder Sandro Rollandi) last evening to confirm that they opened in 1979 and that they have been serving up modern yet traditional delicacies for 43 years. Quite a legacy.

A server spotted me waiting for my friend in front of the restaurant. He suggested that I sit down at a table while I waited. When my dinner date arrived, we ordered drinks, the food started flowing and we never moved from those cheerful yellow tables on the sidewalk!

A number of gentlemen who worked at Rolandi’s made sure we were never thirsty or hungry from that point forward. The bartender didn’t have fresh mint for my mojito, so I matched my friend’s choice of a margarita. They were potent but refreshing.

The menu is vast with appetizers, salads, soups, calzone, pasta, fish, seafood and pizza! May items come their wood-fired oven including the puffed bread that came hot out of the oven as soon as we put down our menus.

Arturo helped us narrow down our choices, which was a very good thing with the number of options. In the end we chose The Crispy Goat Cheese Salad that was a recent addition to the menu. The romaine was fresh, the sundried tomatoes and sauteed mushrooms savoury, but the triangles of goat cheese lightly fried in phyllo, hit the dish out of the park!

I have enjoyed linguine and vongole (clams) in many places that I travel to. I can even make a pretty decent concoction in my own kitchen. I always ask for the white wine version of the dish if given a chose. I virtually hung my mouth over the bowl and slurped the pasta up. The oodles of clams made it hearty and satisfying! I was in heaven.

My friend needed a little bit of extra coaching as she is not partial to seafood. She chose the Agnolotti spinach pasta that was stuffed with a creamy ricotta cheese. The exceptionally prepared fresh tomato sauce was dotted with garlic and sage. She was as smitten as I was, and offered me a couple of tastes. Bites of the pasta and sauce sparkled in my mouth.

When we thought that we had eaten our fill, a flambe cart was wheeled to the table. It was an ice cream pie with a layer of apples and apricot jam. The best part of course was the firey display at our table and the fact that we could share the treat with two forks.

There are culinary traditions that stand the test of time-table side preparation being one of them. There was an ”old school” feeling at Rolandis. But traditions are not a bad thing, nor are they out of style. Remember the saying “what goes around, comes around!”

Kath’s quote: “Though no one can go back and make a brand new start, anyone can start from now and make a brand-new ending”.-Carl Bard

Love never fails.

This weekend I learned a little bit more of the fascinating history of another Isla Mujeres Family. It commences when Margarita originally from Puebla and Merida opened ‘Poc Chuc’ in 1985 on Isla Mujeres. These days Margarita’s daughter Lupita and her husband Conrado run the restaurant which has moved from it’s original location on the corner of Juarez & Abasolo to its new location on Juarez. On that same street but closer to Lopez Mateo is the families’ 2^nd location appropriately named ‘Lupita’ and run by Lupita’s son Rafa (short for Rafael). Now I didn’t know any of this even though I have been visiting Poc Chuc for years and Lupita more recently. But this weekend I visited and had lunch at both fine restaurants and now the restaurant names and their history all make sense.

Lupita explained to me that since her mother’s heritage was from a different state of Mexico, she brought with her the recipes of her original home. Merida, although only 4 and a half hours away from Isla Mujeres, is the capital of the state of the Yucatan. Lupita explained that Cochinita Pibil, Sopa de Lima and Poc Chuc are all influenced by Yucatan recipes and ingredients. 

And so it was that yesterday I enjoyed Poc Chuc and Cochinita Pibil at Lupitas.

Poc Chuc are thin  pork cutlets marinated in sour orange and grilled. The acidity in the orange is what makes the meat both tender and flavourful! The version that I enjoyed also came with the twist of grilled chorizo. The plate came with a number of sides including cole slaw, beans, rice, and a whole basket of tortillas. What a feast!

My lunch partner enjoyed the Cochinita Pibil (marinated in sour orange as well as achiote) as Tacos.

Panuchos (fried tortillas filled with black beans) and Salbutes (similar to panuchos) also originate from the Yucatan and I should have looked for them on the menu when I lunched at Poc Chuc.

But what caught my eye was a not a Yucatan dish at all but Enchiladas Suizas (which originated in Mexico City!) I just love the bright and sparkling flavour of the tomatillo and cilantro sauce. These were made with little tortillas which was a very good thing because the crema and cheese make them so rich that I had to bring half of them home for supper.

My lunch date had guacamole in a molcajete (originally a porous volcanic stone bowl). The presentation was stellar as was the creamy avocado dip.

Both restaurants have a lovely, homey decor. Three generations of restauranteurs know the key to success! We, their guests, benefit from their learned traditions in numerous and tasty ways.

Kath’s quote: “No one who cooks, cooks alone. Even at her most solitary, a cook in the kitchen is surrounded by generations of cooks past, the advice and menus of cooks present…“- Laurie Colwin

Love never fails.