Whenever we get into a chat about our time on Isla Mujeres, we inevitably land on the island’s excellent food quality and variety. You may be surprized that the restaurant that is sited as many of our family and friends absolute favourite is not a Mexican restaurant, but a Mediterranean one. Olivia’s Taste of the Mediterranean is a fusion of Greek, Bulgarian, Moroccan and Turkish cuisine. Almost two decades have evolved and Olivia’s has stood the test of time by continually delivering their cherished dishes in a lovely garden seating or next to an open window near the open kitchen. Everything is made from scratch daily in their kitchens and you can witness as much if you pass by their bustling kitchen on your way to or from the local’s beach.

Last year we met Lior the shared owner of Olivia. This year Yaron introduced himself to us. We have spent many happy times gathered around their largest table under a palapa in the garden.

The garden area is exquisite and we know why this place is so special to so many.

In Greece it is very traditional to start your meal with mezedes, AKA tapas. Small plates to keep you just satisfied enough until your main meal arrives. They also wake up your taste buds for what’s to come. The Greek tapas at Olivia was a lovely combination of fine feta cheese drizzled with olive oil, green olives, creamy tzatziki, an incredible eggplant and red pepper dish, and right out of the oven Parmesan bread.

For our mains we ordered the Moussaka. A layered, baked dish with ancient Middle Eastern roots, likely evolving from an Arab dish of spiced meat and eggplant. Olivia’s version is described as a traditional Balkan casserole with ground beef, eggplant and a creamy Parmesan béchamel sauce. A rich dish, perfectly complemented by the accompanying fresh tomato salad with onion and parsley. 

Next was Spanakopita, the iconic Greek spinach and feta pie, with roots in the ancient Byzantine era. Originating from a need for portable, nourishing meals for workers, it combines Mediterranean staples like wild greens, spinach, feta cheese, and olive oil wrapped in delicate, flaky phyllo dough. The Olivia version was crispy and delicious and combined the a fresh tomato sauce, hard boiled egg and house marinated olives made for the perfect bite. 

Once again dessert had to be passed up as we couldn’t justify another morsel. One of our attentive waiters (3-4 of them took care of us through our time there), offered to pack up our leftovers which I enjoyed again last evening.

There is no wonder why more and more people are enthralled with a stay on Isla Mujeres. Long standing restaurants like Olivia’s keep the throngs coming back for more.

Kath’s quote: “Greek food is not about complexity, but about a perfect balance of ingredients.“ — Diane Kochilas

Love never fails.

Food anthropology is a new fascination for me.  Shall I define the terminology for both your benefit and my own? It is the study of how food reflects and shapes human culture, social relationships and identity. It’s like how food is more than sustenance, it’s a way to understand people and societies.

Mexico is the perfect place to study. Case in point:  we are currently in the Mexican province of Quintano Roo. There is a wonderful restaurant here that highlights Yucatán food. Our waiter David is from the neighbouring province of Yucatán and he is a proud ambassador.

As we walked into the simple, cool and elegant dining room, a food tale started to unfold. I had travelled to Mexico before I had the opportunity to visit the middle east and was fascinated that Middle Eastern countries had adopted the tradition of meat that they slow roasted on a spit. I now know that the influence was vice versa and that the Lebanese first brought al pastor to Yucatan and Mexico, as told by waiter David!

We started with a refreshing chia lemonade and my first cinnamon horchata. I loved it so much that I knocked mine back in a few giant slurps.

For dinner we shared an appetizer of “Kibis”. The name is derived from the word Kibbeh and is a trio of fried balls concocted from wheat flour & mushrooms then stuffed with a nugget of Edam cheese and fried until crunchy. Edam? Isn’t that a Netherlands cheese? That is another food tale but will have to wait for another day. As is often the case for me, the appetizer was my favourite treat. I love crunchy, savoury tastes and these were elevated by pickled cabbage and an xcatik pepper aioli.

Our first entrée, a Queso Relleno, was a work of art. An island of Edam cheese floated in a white sea. The morsel that looked like a patch of earth was created with a cheese sphere stuffed with ground beef in a succulent tomato and caper sauce surrounded by a white sak kool (another traditional Yucatan specialty). David explained that the rich taste of the dish is intentional to celebrate a very special occasion, like a birthday.

The second entrée was a deliberate contrast. Going from the extreme of the special occasion dish to a middle class, everyday supper-Langaniza de Valladolid. David explained that the Queso was an expensive and extravagant meal and that this one was more affordable and consumed often. The dish itself was a smoked pork sausage made from scratch in-house and flavoured with achiote and fire grilled. It is a dry sausage which is to be enjoyed with chiltomate tomato sauce, bean sauce and a grilled sour orange to squeeze on top. The sausage was perched upon three paper thin but beautifully marinated pork slices. A lovely compliment to the sausage.

We could have chatted with David all evening but we had to decline dessert because we were more than satiated. Before we left, he showed us the Cantina to the rear of the restaurant where on Fridays “botanas” are served-little bowls of simple Mexican tapas to compliment your time with a cocktail.

I personally feel even more enthralled with a dish I am tasting, when I know its origination and history. We all have to eat, isn’t wonderful to eat and learn at the same time?

Kath’s quote: “Food for us comes from our relatives, whether they have wings or fins or roots. That is how we consider food. Food has a culture. It has a history. It has a story. It has relationships.” – Winona LaDuke

Love never fails.

On our Facebook page, Isla Mujeres Food, we often have followers asking, “where can I find an authentic Mexican, mom and pop kind of restaurant”.  Well Taqueria MAFER is the perfect recommendation for these folks. Owners Ricardo and Margarita do all the cooking, serving and delivery along with son Alfredo and daughter Maria.

Their menu allows you to build you own taco, quesadilla or sandwich. As well as choose from a few other delightful options. The ingredients are fresh and cooked to perfection. And it’s super affordable making it of excellent value.

The restaurant is humble. Located in the home of the family in the La Gloria neighborhood. A few tables with vinyl table clothes and plastic stools.  An open kitchen where you can see your food being prepared. Just outside the front door is the Pastor rotisserie which often doesn’t get started till later in the day as it’s a favourite of the late night diners.

When you arrive you’ll be told what’s available that day. On the night we dined in Margarita informed us that she had pastor blanco, chorizo, and chicken.

We order a popular dish called Alambra.  It’s a mixture of chopped grilled meat, bell peppers, and onions, topped with lots of melted cheese. We very much enjoyed the Hawaiian version which also had ham and grilled pineapple.  It was served with a stack of tortillas for making wraps.

We also ordered a quesadilla featuring their white pastor. Prepared in a similar style to regular pastor this version doesn’t have achiote paste or red chillies, instead it is cooked with garlic, white vinegar, cinnamon and pepper, allowing the taste of the meat to really shine through.

Recently I asked Matt, a devoted regular customer at Taqueria MAFER about his favourites. He thinks the taqueria has the most moist Quesabirrias he has had on the island. Typically this is on offer once or twice a week. Owner Richard tells him it sells out fast every time.

He also recommended the battered shrimp tacos, which had me very excited. Unfortunately they weren’t available that evening. So now I have reason for a return visit.

Much of the taqueria’s business is home delivery. The limited tables inside the restaurant were quite full on our visit. Then after dinner, as we were waiting for our taxi, three golf carts full of people on the Cultural Cruisers tour pulling up once again bringing the restaurant to capacity. The tour takes you to the islands best home cooking and taqueria MAFER definitely meets that criteria.

Kath’s quote: “Small kitchen, big heart — that’s our secret ingredient.”– Author unknown

Love never fails.

When we first arrived at the Isla Mujeres Ferry Dock, 20 years ago, we looked like deer in the proverbial headlights. We didn’t know which direction our hotel was in, where we could get a bite of lunch or where we could sit with our luggage until check in. In our case, we walked straight ahead but I caught La Lomita out of the corner of my eye. I recognized it from the paper map I had pre-ordered from Map Chick Laura. So we stopped for lunch and the rest as they say is history.

Times have changed: Mapchick Laura is digital, we walk a little slower but our suitcases now have wheels! We have discovered that we can achieve all of our needs by turning right as soon as we leave the ferry terminal! Marina Bartalome is a handful of steps south, their food offerings are delicious, the restaurant is spacious to accommodate all of our luggage and if we need to cool off (which is inevitable) we can dip our feet in their pool!

On the evening we visited recently we were sat at a long table and gave the newbies with us the best view of the sea. We started with cocktails. The gorgeous Purple Spritz was made of cava de oro tequila, and castel de rives cava, a Spanish sparkling wine. Its vibrant blue colour comes from the butterfly tea, an herbal tea made from Clitoria ternatea flowers. The addition of lime juice and sparkling water made it refreshing with the tea providing its unique floral flavour. The Caribbean Punch mocktail was a delicious mix of pineapple and cranberry juices with passion fruit pulp and ginger syrup. It looked like a tequila sunrise!

The owner who has become very dear to Sister Sue and I suggested that we try a number of menu items. The passion tostada was piled high with moist cubes of fresh tuna marinated in passion fruit, mango, and macha sauce, an infused oil of chillies, garlic and salt. In the mix was red onion, avocado and chipotle mayo. The flavourful marinate soaked into the crisp tostada and extra tortilla chips were served to scoop up every morsel.

The seafood stack was a thing of beauty.  Octopus, conch and fresh tuna in a cilantro sauce, was arranged with cucumber, mango, red onion, avocado, and radish. It looked like a flower and was a pleasing to the mouth as it was to the eye.

Zarandeado shrimp are whole shrimp marinated in spicy mayo, butter, and lime. Served upon a grilled romaine lettuce heart. It was recommended we eat it shell on, avoiding only the too hard tail. In the shell you could really taste the char of the charcoal and the spice blend coming together.

Pulpo Tatemado Bartalomé is an award winning char grilled octopus created by Chef Eduardo Estrella Narvaez from Yucatan península. Winner of la parrillada del Valle, grilling competition in 2022 hosted in Valle de Guadalupe. And it’s easy to see why. Marinated in a red spice blend, this Mayan octopus is seasonal product that is cooked over charcoal. It was served with mashed potatoes and corn on the cob.

On a previous visit, the owner’s husband arrived with the day’s catch and it was whisked right off to the kitchen. It’s important to note that Marina Bartolomé, respects seafood fishing bans and traceability, and always choosing the most environmentally sustainable options for marine ecosystems and species.

So when you arrive on the ferry for your 20th time or your very first time, turn right my friend, turn right.

Kath’s quote: “Seafood is the soul of the ocean.”-Author Unknown

Love never fails.

If you have ever dreamed of a going to a tropical island for a month or so, and just having a carry on bag, I have found you the place. Typically my summer clothes do not take a whole lot of suitcase room but it is all the “extras” that mean I have to schlep a full suitcase, a backpack and a beach bag as my “personal” item (in airport language).

Hotel las Palmas in Isla Mujeres has every other thing you can imagine needing on vacay: a variety of board games, a baby stroller, sunscreen, bug spray, umbrellas, beach chairs, floatie devices, fins, facemasks, snorkels, beach towels, coffee mugs and water bottles.

In addition to every bestseller book you have ever wanted to read. And did I mention a resident cat and 2 dogs!

The open area kitchen has a toaster, blender, coffee perk, French presses, stock pots,

every size of pot and frying pans,

oodles of plates & cutlery, full fridge (in addition to every guestroom being equipped with one),

a full stove (including an oven!), prep island,

oils, spices, AND the kitchen sink.

One of my years visiting the island I read posts from a gentleman staying at the hotel offering opportunities to join them at a communal table for spaghetti, paella, chili, etc. You made a contribution to the ingredients and washed your own dishes.

The morning I was up a bit too early, I wandered upstairs to see if the coffee was on. They were actually a number of people also up at 5:30 am as it was an eclipse event. While I gazed at the moon, a beautiful woman (another guest) came around to offer me a cranberry cocktail and then later bites of a banana Nutella crepe. I was touched. The birds were going wild. Even the roosters were up early.

My little room (called a Travelers Room) had an enormous shower, a night light, tons of hangers, a third pillow, grocery bags, reading lights, the afore mentioned fridge and my own ac unit. Every other space I desired was in the plant filled common areas.

As I feel asleep in the comfy bed, I heard music that I thought was coming from a nightclub. I found out later that one of my fellow hotel guests had pulled out his guitar and was singing for a group that were under the night sky. I understand they did so again the following night. But Kate, the owner advised me, you never know when an impromptu serenade will take place.

If you are a solo traveler, at the Hotel Las Palmas you will be greeted with many “Buenos Dias” in the morning, tips on where to buy the most beautiful beach dresses or the best buy on Kahlua and vanilla. You will be asked where you went for dinner and if you would like to assemble with other guests for a night cap. In other words, you will make instant friends.

But if you prefer to be with people but not always be a part of a group conversation, that’s fine too. When fellow guests saw me typing away on my lap top, they smiled at me and strolled by, leaving me to concentrate. If you are couple looking for some private time, the rooms are cooled by AC and ceiling fans. Many suites have couches and easy chairs for morning coffee or a glass of wine.

There are more easy chairs and couches scattered over three floors, so you are sure to find a comfy spot to chill out in either the sun or shade.

If you happen to be on the island for a rain interval, you can use it as the excuse to pursue the 100s of novel titles curated by one of the staff. There are 4 floors of communal space are bright and whimsically painted

with a dipping pool,

Adirondacks,

hammock chair, loungers,

a conventional bed (for afternoon naps in the sun) and a hanging bed on the very roof top.

My stay was short but other guests find the rates so affordable that they stay for weeks. I was smitten and am already considering a longer stay in 2027.

Kath’s quote: “Where we love is home – home that our feet may leave, but not our hearts”. — Oliver Wendell Holmes, Jr. 

Love never fails.