I love an excuse to get out of Centro. As the years of visits pass, it gets more and more hectic and crowded. I hopped into a cab and sat up front with the driver. That is when I really feel like a local. I don’t think I fooled him when I asked him to drop me at Isla 33. I am pretty sure he knew I was joining someone at the kantina as opposed to residing at the condos.
I was meeting a friend of a friend, who I also have known on line for many years. It was our first time to meet in person and it was a lovely visit.
The setting is wonderful near the cliffs of the Caribbean Sea. The breeze was refreshing and also a nice break from the heat of Centro.
It was Happy Hour so we took advantage of some very well priced drinks. I loved my Paloma.
Our waiter suggested that my dinner companion and I share a Molcajete. I was familiar with the ancient cooking tool that was traditionally made from volcanic rock. I had taken a cooking class in Puerto Moreles one year and we had used the dish (that is similar to a mortar & pestle) to make guacamole. The stone’s rough texture breaks down food while releasing essential oils, which intensifies flavors in a way that metal or plastic simply can’t. Over time, chefs and home cooks realized that the stone bowl could also be used to hold and keep hot food warm at the table. Thus, the molcajete dish was born.
I had tasted a molcajete once before in one of the traditional Mexican restaurants on Hidalgo and loved it. The dish begins with a sizzling hot bowl that acts as a small stone oven. Once heated, the bowl is filled with vibrant ingredients, layered over a rich base of tomato sauce.
Grilled cactus, bell peppers, and onions are added for color and crunch. I know that Mexican Chorizo typically adds a spiciness and richness, but the sausage used in La Konita Kantina’s version was quite mild. Wedges of grilled Mexican cheese also bubbled in the hot bowl. Shrimp was added to this yummy version which brought a touch of the sea and a natural sweetness that balanced the spices. Tender strips of steak were also added to make the dish particularly hearty.
I took half the dish (repackaged, not in the stone bowl) which I enjoyed as leftovers. In fact there is still enough for another meal!
My dinner date lives and works on the island full time, so it was wonderful to share a dish that was authentically Mexican.
In coming to Isla Mujeres for many years, I know exactly what I want in the way of accommodation and I am delighted to say that this little studio has it all. As the song goes: “These are a few of my favourite things!”
I love being close to the malecon to watch the sunrise each and every morning.
I have to have a window that opens for fresh air. Failing that, good AC that doesn’t rattle in the night.
A garrafon of water with a working spigot or pump is essential as well as a microwave to warm up leftovers. It sounds like a little thing but I am so impressed when a rental provides paper towels!
Enough hangers to hang all of my summer dresses and cubbies so that everything is hidden from sight. An iron is a bonus. A working safe for my passport and all my spending money!
A hook in the bathroom to hang my toiletry bag. Good water pressure in the shower and enough hot water so that I can rinse the cream rinse out of my hair. Extra rolls of toilet paper in the bathroom.
Key hooks by the door. Other hooks to hang my purse and beach bag,
A blender for smoothies or margaritas.
A full set of cooking utensils, a real wine glass and a corkscrew for my happy hour or nightcap glass of wine. Coffee cups and a coffee maker for lazy mornings.
An oven to make cookies or muffins is always nice.
A beside table to accommodate my kobo, reading glasses, my charging phone/alarm and a comfy bed with fresh “Isla” smelling sheets!
Chairs are nice so that you don’t always have to sit on the bed.
A counter or table top so that I can write on my laptop or have a sandwich during the day.
Outdoor space is wonderful to catch some fresh air or have a nap in a lounge chair.
The owners of Candes are very responsive and took great care of me. This space is very compact but also well-priced AND you cannot beat the location!
Kath’s quote. “A comfortable house is a great source of happiness. It ranks immediately after health and a good conscience”. — Sydney Smith
North Garden has long been on my favourite street in Centro-the street that leads to North Beach and perhaps that is one of the many reasons for their success. As you walk by, you can smell bacon being cooked to crispy, just the way I like it. That aroma sticks in your head but you are determined to get a prime spot on the beach (under a palm tree for shade) so you decide to visit on another day.
Well, that day had come! I was meeting a dear Isla friend, and we had a lot to get caught up on. We eventually got down to ordering and our breakfasts came before we knew it.
My friend is a careful eater. That is why he can play an 1 ½ of tennis and then another 1 ½ of pickle ball. His egg white omelet was piping hot and stuffed with sauteed zucchini, spinach, mushrooms, peppers and tomato. It was the goat cheese that put the omelet over the top.
On the other hand, I do not play 3 hours of court sports, but I do try to get out for a good long walk every day. Sometimes my destination is a restaurant so I don’t think that counts as exercise, does it? My choice of the Hotcakes Trio even sounds decadent, doesn’t it?
The Hotcakes Trio was my way of eating healthy protein with a little treat on the side. I chose over easy eggs that were cooked perfectly along with ham and potatoes. On top of those choices, I was able to pick from a selection of pancakes styles and Cinamon Roll sounded too good to be true!
It was a satisfying breakfast and an equally satisfying catch up with my friend. Drop in on your way to the beach or for no reason at all. The warm and attentive staff, mentored by my friends Brenda and Fernando, are waiting for you. Now why didn’t I order the bacon? I have to go back.
Kath’s quote: “Bacon: the main reason I am not a vegetarian.”-Authour unknown
In online slang, “edge” generally refers to being bold, provocative, or standing out! And our experience at “The Edge of the World” was exactly that.
Hugo does not have a long family history on Isla and yet I believe he understands that when you have an opportunity to work with all that Isla has to offer: its beauty, its seafood, its fruits and juices, its fresh herbs…you can create fresh inspired cuisine.
When asked about the origin of the name of this new venture, he shared this. “It’s from a graphic novel I was writing a while back as a kid and it referred to a bar that featured wonders through cutting edge technology that blurred the lines between reality and fantasy. And the location fit perfectly.”
Hugo started out as a mixologist, working alongside many prominent chefs. Often he was consulted to marry cocktail flavours with certain dishes. It was this experience that prompted his wonder of food creation. Each course that evening was either balanced by his signature cocktails or contrasted by them. More about that later.
On the night that we visited, two other tables arrived after us. The first thing that everybody does is take pictures of the view and the surroundings, us included.
Hugo indicates that he has a special relationship with the church in order to avail his guests of the setting. He is already planning for wedding celebrations that will take place on the property. Just imagine…
I now understand why there is nothing written down. How do you keep a record of your imagination? Hugo does say that he has a notebook with some cocktail notes in it. The rest is spontaneous and part of his creative process.
We started with a refreshing pear cocktail to accentuate our poached pear salad. I was so busy writing down the ingredients of the fabulous salad that I did not get a chance to note all the cocktail ingredients. But I do know that it was light and refreshing and the relationship between the cocktail and the salad was perfectly balanced as Hugo intended.
The poached pears were accompanied by chopped peppers and carrots and then crowned with a pepita brittle (like a peanut brittle but with pumpkin seeds). I poured every drop of the champagne and thyme dressing over top. In fact, when Hugo’s assistant Javier was clearing the plates, I was sipping the remains of the salad dressing in the bottom of my bowl with a spoon.
My favourite dish of the night was the Shrimp Ceviche (Penny had chicken). I really enjoy all kinds of ceviche, ever since I first tasted the dish on Cozumel decades ago, but I will admit that sometime the intensity of the lime juice is overpowering. (It must be intense in order to “cook” the seafood). But a combination of citrus juices (pineapple, orange and lime) can have the same effect. This is what Hugo discovered for his version of ceviche. In addition, there were tiny cubes of fresh coconut mixed with the abundant shrimp which provided a satisfying crunch to the dish.
Penny who is allergic to seafood was served chicken filets that had been marinated in beer, pineapple and jerk spices. Adorning the chicken were a variety of finely chopped vegetables that retained a smokiness but were not too spicy. A silky beet and plantain puree accompanied.
With two different appetizers came two different cocktails. Mine with the shrimp had the flavouring of a pina colada (coconut and pineapple) without the heaviness of the cream. Penny’s to balance with the chicken, appeared to have Aperol or a similar orange flavouring.
I truly could have stopped eating right at that point. I am just thinking ahead for my next visit to “The Edge of the World” and I would be perfectly content with the cocktails, the starters and the ambiance by the ocean and the church.
But onward we went. My entree was marinated tuna in a soy and citrus sauce. It was very pleasant but I must admit that the plantain puree on my plate was the highlight for me. Hugo makes all his own syrups and the one that flavoured the plantain was a cardamon elixir.
Our accompanying cocktails were scientifically planned: Hugo said that because our entrees were so “lipid” rich, he planned something to contrast the meals, so he chose a more acidic drink which included St Germaine ( a French liqueur made from elderflowers) and rosemary syrup. He called the libation his version of a “sour”. I wondered then, if there was an egg white froth on the perimeter of the glass. He replied that he had made the froth with chick peas! Go figure. I asked if there was any anise or ouzo in the concoction because I could swear there was a suggestion of licorice. That is probably why I liked it so much, in fact, enough to consume the designated driver’s glass as well.
Penny was delighted with her flank steak marinated in pineapple and mezcal, the asparagus spears and the mole enchiladas that made up her plate. She exclaimed that it was all unexpected and absolutely delicious and that the mole had just a little kick at the end.
We hand to cry “uncle” at dessert time. Hugo suggest he provide two spoons for the chocolate cake bottomed flan. I don’t know if this is a common after dinner treat in Mexico but I have only tasted plain flans. Hugo’s version was so scrumptious that we split it easily.
We didn’t have the same luck with the accompanying cocktails. It looked like a delicious version of the chocolate flan in a glass! I say “looked” because I couldn’t even manage a sip.
Hugo spends so much time engaging all three tables in conversation that I don’t know how he manages to put all the finishing touches on the dishes too. He says though that he gets in at around 9 am and walks home around eleven. I would imagine that his many syrups and sauces keep him prepping all day long. That is the degree of effort that must go into a food experience of this kind. If we were using a star rating system, I would give Hugo full marks!
Kath’s quote: “A great chef turns simple ingredients into unforgettable experiences. Cook with the heart, and the world will taste the difference.”-Authour unknown
Casa Will Marcella is quirky, there is no doubt about that. From the street you enter down a long hall and the lives of the neighbours are apparent. But as soon as you unlook the front door and make your way past a landing that I understand is going to be made into a work station, the little sanctuary is perfect. I don’t mean to say perfectly quiet, as the every day sounds of the neighbours travel right up to your open windows. I opened as many windows as I could reach to let the breeze and those very sounds become a part of my stay.
This floor is where most of your living space is, with a self contained bathroom (with a bathtub!), kitchen, dining/work area, comfortable sectional couch that morphs into a bed and a separate bedroom. There are so many windows that the walls virtually open up to the outside and create that wonderful indoor/outdoor living.
But if that wasn’t enough outdoor space, a staircase/ladder leads you to the top floor with views of other rooftops in every direction. There are plenty of electrical units up there and the wifi works great. There is a love seat and 2 comfortable chairs.
There is even a little barbeque! I spent hours up there.
If you are a sunrise watcher like me, you have an unobstructed view of the rising sun from the roof or if you are a little bit lazy one morning, from the bedroom.
There are overhead fans in the living area and two air conditioning units as well. And if you are so inclined (I am not) there are two huge televisions.
The kitchen is equipped with a full sized fridge, hotplate, portable oven and every single kitchen appliance you can think of! I have an extremely well-appointed kitchen back home and unit #3 at CWM has even more gadgets than me.
There is a rotisserie for the oven, an electric can opener if you struggle with the manual ones, a brand new immersion blender, an internal meat thermometer, an airtight butter keeper, travel mug and a martini shaker!
In the bathroom you will find first aid items, high end hair styling products, a hair dryer, mosquito spray and suntan lotion.
In the bedroom there are plenty of hangers and shelves to place your everyday items. There is even an electric steam handheld iron! There are privacy shades to hold back the morning sun and great linens on a pillow top mattress.
The cleanliness is top drawer and even better, it is easy to maintain yourself with glistening porcelain floor and wall tiles.
The location is steps from the malecon in one direction and one short end block to Hidalgo and yet I heard no late night music or traffic sounds. That is because that section of road is a dead end.
Now the steps might be a challenge for some. You definitely do not want to have too much to drink or have too big a load to carry in your arms. But if you are careful, the stairs are actually a treat because it provides with separate areas if you happen to have a roommate.
The family that are the local landlords and cleaners are very attentive.
There are brand new backpack/beachchairs that I availed myself of to watch the sunset from North Beach.
I loved all the little artistic touches. They made my stay even that much more enjoyable!
Kath’s quote: “Home is the nicest word there is.” – Laura Ingalls Wilder
