When a friend of mine knew that I was heading to Isla Mujeres for the first time in 2005, he said “We loved going to the island in the 1980s. We hung out at Rolandi’s right on the main street. That place was hopping!” In between his time on the island and the start of my time, there was a span of 20 years. Add to that the 20 consecutive years I have visited the island (except for Covid of course). I visited Rolandis (named by its founder Sandro Rollandi) last evening to confirm that they opened in 1979 and that they have been serving up modern yet traditional delicacies for 43 years. Quite a legacy.

A server spotted me waiting for my friend in front of the restaurant. He suggested that I sit down at a table while I waited. When my dinner date arrived, we ordered drinks, the food started flowing and we never moved from those cheerful yellow tables on the sidewalk!

A number of gentlemen who worked at Rolandi’s made sure we were never thirsty or hungry from that point forward. The bartender didn’t have fresh mint for my mojito, so I matched my friend’s choice of a margarita. They were potent but refreshing.

The menu is vast with appetizers, salads, soups, calzone, pasta, fish, seafood and pizza! May items come their wood-fired oven including the puffed bread that came hot out of the oven as soon as we put down our menus.

Arturo helped us narrow down our choices, which was a very good thing with the number of options. In the end we chose The Crispy Goat Cheese Salad that was a recent addition to the menu. The romaine was fresh, the sundried tomatoes and sauteed mushrooms savoury, but the triangles of goat cheese lightly fried in phyllo, hit the dish out of the park!

I have enjoyed linguine and vongole (clams) in many places that I travel to. I can even make a pretty decent concoction in my own kitchen. I always ask for the white wine version of the dish if given a chose. I virtually hung my mouth over the bowl and slurped the pasta up. The oodles of clams made it hearty and satisfying! I was in heaven.

My friend needed a little bit of extra coaching as she is not partial to seafood. She chose the Agnolotti spinach pasta that was stuffed with a creamy ricotta cheese. The exceptionally prepared fresh tomato sauce was dotted with garlic and sage. She was as smitten as I was, and offered me a couple of tastes. Bites of the pasta and sauce sparkled in my mouth.

When we thought that we had eaten our fill, a flambe cart was wheeled to the table. It was an ice cream pie with a layer of apples and apricot jam. The best part of course was the firey display at our table and the fact that we could share the treat with two forks.

There are culinary traditions that stand the test of time-table side preparation being one of them. There was an ”old school” feeling at Rolandis. But traditions are not a bad thing, nor are they out of style. Remember the saying “what goes around, comes around!”

Kath’s quote: “Though no one can go back and make a brand new start, anyone can start from now and make a brand-new ending”.-Carl Bard

Love never fails.

This weekend I learned a little bit more of the fascinating history of another Isla Mujeres Family. It commences when Margarita originally from Puebla and Merida opened ‘Poc Chuc’ in 1985 on Isla Mujeres. These days Margarita’s daughter Lupita and her husband Conrado run the restaurant which has moved from it’s original location on the corner of Juarez & Abasolo to its new location on Juarez. On that same street but closer to Lopez Mateo is the families’ 2^nd location appropriately named ‘Lupita’ and run by Lupita’s son Rafa (short for Rafael). Now I didn’t know any of this even though I have been visiting Poc Chuc for years and Lupita more recently. But this weekend I visited and had lunch at both fine restaurants and now the restaurant names and their history all make sense.

Lupita explained to me that since her mother’s heritage was from a different state of Mexico, she brought with her the recipes of her original home. Merida, although only 4 and a half hours away from Isla Mujeres, is the capital of the state of the Yucatan. Lupita explained that Cochinita Pibil, Sopa de Lima and Poc Chuc are all influenced by Yucatan recipes and ingredients. 

And so it was that yesterday I enjoyed Poc Chuc and Cochinita Pibil at Lupitas.

Poc Chuc are thin  pork cutlets marinated in sour orange and grilled. The acidity in the orange is what makes the meat both tender and flavourful! The version that I enjoyed also came with the twist of grilled chorizo. The plate came with a number of sides including cole slaw, beans, rice, and a whole basket of tortillas. What a feast!

My lunch partner enjoyed the Cochinita Pibil (marinated in sour orange as well as achiote) as Tacos.

Panuchos (fried tortillas filled with black beans) and Salbutes (similar to panuchos) also originate from the Yucatan and I should have looked for them on the menu when I lunched at Poc Chuc.

But what caught my eye was a not a Yucatan dish at all but Enchiladas Suizas (which originated in Mexico City!) I just love the bright and sparkling flavour of the tomatillo and cilantro sauce. These were made with little tortillas which was a very good thing because the crema and cheese make them so rich that I had to bring half of them home for supper.

My lunch date had guacamole in a molcajete (originally a porous volcanic stone bowl). The presentation was stellar as was the creamy avocado dip.

Both restaurants have a lovely, homey decor. Three generations of restauranteurs know the key to success! We, their guests, benefit from their learned traditions in numerous and tasty ways.

Kath’s quote: “No one who cooks, cooks alone. Even at her most solitary, a cook in the kitchen is surrounded by generations of cooks past, the advice and menus of cooks present…“- Laurie Colwin

Love never fails.

Zaza Beach Club occupies the former beach club of Captain Dulce’s. I had never visited but was familiar with the area because my sister and her husband stayed a number of years at Mar y Sol. I was delighted when we pulled up in our golf cart to the familiar property.

A major event had just concluded. There were bouquets of fresh flowers and beautiful dressed women heading off in golf carts. You could hear the staff getting ready for yet another occasion after they departed. This left us with the place virtually to ourselves. Full catamarans unloaded at the dock in the vicinity, but the grounds never had the feeling of being over crowded.

Both my friend and I needed shade, not because it was too hot. In fact it was just the right temperature but because we both try to prevent our skin from being over exposed. (It is the only skin we’ve got). We were escorted to a cabana adjacent to a large swimming pool. Hector introduced himself as our server. The furniture in the shade were not loungers or beds which I find uncomfortable for an afternoon. Instead we sat comfortably in “living room” style furniture.

We soon found ourselves with alcoholic beverages in hand. They had been well poured. As it was early afternoon and we were hungry, we made our wishes known to Hector. He was soon back with Ceviche and Aquachile Tostadas. There were both expertly prepared and delicious.

We whiled away the afternoon while people watching. There was techno music blasting from the speakers and many people enjoyed the vibe. Even little ones.

At some point, I decided to check out the buffet as it was also included in our day pass. I enjoyed cochina pibil & chicken, but especially the spears of jicama with tajin and the roasted carrots!

The washrooms were well tended with plenty of water in fact everything you could ask for in a Beach Club was in place, providing pretty great value.

Kath’s quote: “Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air.” – Ralph Waldo Emerson

Love never fails.

If Brenda and Fernando lived in Canada or the US you might call them a “power” couple. They own and operate two of the island’s success stories-North Garden and Grill Garden. But if you met them in person, “power” would be the last descriptor on your mind. They are genuine, gracious, down to earth and generous.

Grill Garden has a number of core menu items that have remained constants over the years but they are known to streamline where necessary. I have seen their menu expand and retract again and noticed this evening that there were a number of young families dining early. I think they have attracted a whole new generation of guests. They are willing to accommodate old and young.

On this evening, an old Isla acquaintance of mine and I had a lot of catching up to do. So we ordered a cocktail so that we could stall our dinner decision making a bit. Our server Javier suggested I might want to try a Banana Split Daiquiri. You know what they say? “Life is short, eat dessert first!” And that is exactly what I did.

My friend Marie has an eye for colourful pictures and with Javier’s advice we chose a couple of beautiful dishes. The Tikin -Xic taco was gorgeous. I was lead to believe that Tikin-Xic was unique to Isla Mujeres but my research tells me: “Tikin Xic is not just a dish; it is a representation of Yucatecan culture and tradition. It is often serveduring family gatherings and religious celebrations, showcasing the connection between the land and sea, and the culinary practices of the ancient Maya. Despite its rich history, Tikin Xic has not gained the same fame as other Yucatecan dishes like cochinita pibil, but it remains a cherished part of local cuisine.”

Mahi-mahi had been marinated in achiote sauce and then grilled. It was then gingerly placed over a grilled pineapple. Roasted peppers, tomato and onion leant itself to be wrapped up in the blue corn tortillas but I loved the ingredients so much, that I ate it with my fork and loved every savoury bite. I also read that achiote is a spice native to the Caribbean. It has a mild, earthy and peppery flavour. It had a double use to the ancient Mayans as they utilized the spice for body paint and lipstick!

I have eaten a chimichanga ( a deep fried barrito) just once on Isla. It was at the Sunset Grill based on Mapchicks Laura’s recommendation. So that meant it I had been on a 20 year chimichanga draught. That was really silly because I love them! Grill Garden’s version relies on a cowboy’s rendition of BBQ. The deep fried package was absolutely stuffed with the fixins from a Texas barbeque (I have never actually been to Texas, so forgive me if I am wrong).

Opening the packet, we discovered pulled pork bathed in a delicious barbeque sauce as well as “cowboy” beans and surprisingly mac & cheese! It absolutely worked.

Brenda and then Fernando stopped by to ensure that we were delighted with the food! It was Brenda’s birthday and there was soon to be a celebration occurring in the restaurant. Brenda invited me to join her party and even though I was somewhat shy to do so, I am glad that I did! I met wonderful folk some of whom were regular guests, as well as close friends and family members. Brenda assured me that by way of the invitation, I too was considered family. Once again, I was god-smacked by acquaintances who have become friends and friends who have become family.

Kath’s quote: “The bond that links your true family is not one of blood, but of respect and joy in each other’s life.” –Richard Bach

Love never fails.

Gustavo has met many members of my immediate family and it was lovely to see him when we dined at Isla Bistro for brunch recently as I was able to introduce him to my friend and the other Grandma to my three eldest Grandkids- Victoria. Hilary, her youngest daughter, a newbie and my goddaughter was also in attendance. Gustavo was enthralled by Hilary’s perspective as she represents a younger demo of Isla travellers and she manages a bustling café back home. She is also my Goddaughter.

Gustavo helped me explain to my brunch guests the core values of Isla Bistro which are threefold: community, value, and accessibility. His first and foremost pleasure is to see local islanders and travelers alike, frequent the restaurant in the heart of the island. Perhaps to have some alone time, to read with a cup of coffee, to casually assemble with friends and family or to concentrate over their laptop on a big work project. Drop in for a quick coffee like the espresso bars in Europe or stay for hours on a rainy day, the space is meant to be your second home.

When Gus explains what he means by value, he makes it very clear that he does not mean a “cheap” experience but one when you appreciate the love and care that goes into the dishes using the freshest and highest quality ingredients that money can buy. He wants you to value the relationships that you make with other Bistro lovers and his hand picked staff. So too, to see the cleanliness and care that goes into running the place for your continued pleasure.

By accessibility, he is not only inviting a diverse clientele, but that you could find the restaurant easily, that the restaurant is a barrier free facility that is made for wheelchairs or walkers for seniors, highchairs and strollers for a young growing family or that cool place to see and be seen by a younger demo. All are made comfortable by Manager Bert and his caring staff.

On the morning that we brunched, we actually only sampled one brunch item. Victoria who has had numerous opportunities to travel to the middle east loved the Shakshuka exclaiming that the simmering of the vegetables in the delish tomato sauce was perfection. She is so knowledgeable about the egg concoction that she has even tasted green versions of the dish.

Hilary and  I sampled another couple of dishes that you will learn more about in the future. We were content to chat on, while enjoying Isla Bistro’s excellent coffee.

Isla Bistro coffee is certified organic and fair trade, sourced directly from an all-women indigenous community in Chiapas and locally roasted for freshness. For local residents and Airbnb owners they offer the Isla Bistro Coffee Club Membership allowing customers to buy a glass container with fresh coffee and then refilling it for a discount. This way they avoid creating trash (glass jar + refills), and support a great cause. That being a co-op in Chiapas (Mexico’s poorest state) where women are gainfully employed and thereby empowered to provide other women with encouragement and support.

Isla Bistro also have coffee bags to go and mugs for purchase. They would make great gifts for coffee lovers in your family or on the island.

So go ahead, move in and make Isla Bistro your second home!

Kath’s quote: “A second home isn’t just a place; it’s a sanctuary for the soul.“ –Authour unknown

Love never fails.