The first year I visited the island in 2005, I dined at Faynes on Hidalgo.

It was Superbowl Sunday and they were broadcasting the game. I don’t remember anything about the food but I do remember that Paul McCartney sang “Hey Jude” at halftime. With a full turn of the wheel of time I was back at Fayne’s for dinner last evening and no matter what football game or half time show might have played last night, I will always remember the food. What glorious food!

We started with mussels fresh from the south of Mexico. They were juicy and tender and the sauce….was divine! Both Karen, my companion who had just arrived on the island and I agreed that you could drink the sublime roasted tomato and cream sauce and be happy for the rest of your life. Luckily the mussels were served with parmesan cheese toast to save us the embarrassment of lifting the bowl to our mouths. Potatoes also floated in the silky sauce and being a self-professed potato aficionado, I was delighted.

We were doubly blessed when Victor Castillo, one of the managers at Fayne’s appeared from the brand new restaurant La Adelita next door. He explained that Fayne’s features seafood and live rock music whereas the new restaurant was born to focus on regional dishes from all over Mexico and a softer music vibe.

He suggested that we try the Mochican Carnnitas. Let’s start with the pork. I thought it might have been a fattier cut like pork belly because there was a delicious amount of roasted fat which is what made the pork, along with a bit of salt during the confit process, perfection. Confit is actually a French word describing the procedure of roasting any meat in its own fat. It has long been a method to preserve the meat, but not in this case. The Carnitas (little meats) originate from the state of Mochica. With the exception of Fredy’s pork chop, it is now my favourite pork dish on the island. By the way, it is served with onion, cilantro, Mexican sauce, rice and corn tortillas which I didn’t even touch and still brought leftover pork home.

So maybe now you are thinking “well maybe we should visit La Adelita instead of Faynes”. If you did you would miss out on their Chef’s Special of a fish filet and sauteed shrimp with tri coloured peppers and ribbons of a dried guajillo chili, which I thought at first was a sun dried tomato (but that would be on another continent). The sauce of tomato and white wine was what made the dish. Well in truth, it was the generous inclusion of melted butter that endeared the sauce to me. I can’t give you any details of the fish or the shrimp except to say that in that sauce, it mattered little to me.

As you will note, I jumped right into describing the food, and missed sharing our special cocktails also from La Adelita. Karen was served a Mango Aguate-where avocado, coconut cream and mango (of course) was blended together producing dessert in a glass. It was rich and silky and I was tempted to get out a spoon.

My refreshing drink of mixed berries, lime, triple sec and Jamiaca tequila was also blended and then garnished with a slice of pink grapefruit which I rarely eat on the island. But the piece de resistance was the rosemary spear that also adorned the drink, and was set on fire! The sultry odour reminded me of another scent and I looked around to ensure that no one thought we were breaking the smoking ban.

We likely overstayed our welcome because the sidewalk became crowded with people waiting for a space to enjoy the live music, making Fayne’s a hotspot for both music and culinary deliciousness.

The moral of this story is that even if you expect one experience, keep an open mind and heart to enjoy another. I am so glad I revisted Fayne’s.

Kath’s quote. “The people who give you their food give you their heart.” – Cesar Chavez

Love never fails.

By Sister #3

I love the traditional food from all over Mexico that you can find on Isla Mujeres. But the reality is I’m here for two months and sometimes I just want a slice of pizza. When I’m alone on the island, ordering pizza leaves me with leftovers for days. But I’ve just discovered a great new place on Juarez between Madero and Morelos where I can get pizza by the slice.

Kath here: I have always admired the traditional painted Mexican building that the pizzeria is location in.

On this particular evening my siblings and I were planning to dine on the beach at sunset. So we decided to pick up pizza and refreshments to take for our picnic.

Upon entering IL Pomodorino, we were greeted by the friendly staff who offered us a free sample of Margherita pizza while we considered our options. This bite confirmed that the pizza crust was crispy and the red sauce was well balanced. Brenda helped us make our selection. We opted to order by the slice. Each slice is generous and four slices was enough to feed the four of us. At only 80 pesos a slice it was good value. We cut each slice into four portions so we could each enjoy the variety.

You can order an entire pizza if you wish, the round thin crust, or a slightly thicker rectangular one. The menu is extensive with 26 options featuring red sauce and an additional six with white sauce.

There were many pizzas on display so we selected the Hawaiian, a pepperoni, an Italian sausage with red onion, and the Caprese, with pesto and cherry tomatoes.

Our selections were brought up to piping hot in the wood-fire pizza oven and packed in a box for transport. We requested soft drinks and bottled water and headed to the beach.

There are some very inventive combinations on offer. I was intrigued by the Raffinata, a white sauce pizza with blue cheese, pear, nuts, honey, and arugula. Perhaps next time.

If you are like me and like to look through the menu before you visit a restaurant, take note that IL Pomodorino’s menu is in Spanish. Once you’re at the restaurant the staff have great English.

So here are some words that may help make the menu easier for you.

Ajo – garlic
Acietuna – olives
Albahaca – basil
Anchoa – anchovies
Atun – tuna
Berenjena – eggplant
Calabaza – zucchini
Cebolla – onion
Champiñón – mushroom
Espinaca – spinach
Jamón pavo – turkey ham
Nuez – nuts
Piniento – pepper
Queso azur – blue cheese
Salchicha – hotdog
Tocino – bacon

For the hours of the restaurant as well as the extensive menu, check out www.mapchick.com. The best money you will ever spend.

Kath’s quote: “You better cut the pizza in four pieces because I’m not hungry enough to eat six“.– Yogi Berra.

Love never fails.

Criss Medina is from a family that goes back many generations in Isla Mujeres. We first met when I visited one of her restaurants in Centro. Riconcito Kahlo and a couple spin off concepts have moved locations a few times, but I think where they having landed, the previous Sesso Locos, is the ideal spot for them to put down permanent roots.

There is something about Riconcito Khalo that reminds me that life is beautiful. The walls are filled with colourful art, full of flowers and lovely images of Frieda Kahlo, a Mexican icon. The ambience is cheerful yet sophisticated and matches the vibrant nature of the women who run it.

Criss has handed the reigns of the establishment to daughter Dani who is an absolute natural at hospitality. While her smile lights up the room, her attentive nature leaves you feeling very welcome. 

The evening we were there the live music was smooth and sultry. Cindy Lu provides jazz and blues every Friday evening. This week she was joined by Walter Fischbacher and Elisabeth Lohninger who made a stop in Isla before setting out on a European tour. 

I was in the mood for something cold and refreshing sans alcohol and their lemonada was just perfect. Icy cold, lemony and not too sweet. Like a few other restaurants I’ve experienced on Isla RK serve “botanas”, small plates of snacks to enjoy with your drink as you wait for the food. We munched on a small bowl of popcorn and shelled some salted peanuts which helped keep our hunger at bay. 

We decided to order one decadent dish and one on the lighter side. The first was the quesabirrias for which Riconcito Khalo is famous. I first tried them two years ago and couldn’t wait to have them again. Crunchy tacos with melted cheese and pulled beef that has been slow cooked and is chuck-full of flavour. And if that wasn’t enough, it’s served with a bowl of broth made using the drippings of the beef as its base.

You add chopped red onion and cilantro and a squeeze of lime to the broth and then dip your tacos in like a Mexican beef dip. After you are done, you can finish the broth as a soup. 

Our lighter dish was the aguachile suggested by Dani. Both my sis and I love ceviche so we were pretty sure this would be a hit. It was fantastic. We ordered a mild heat level. The shrimp that is cured in lime juice was tender and sweet. The cucumber, onion, and avocado slices all came together as a perfect dish to eat on tortilla chips. 

I look forward to many a meal and evening of excellent music at Riconcito Khalo. And especially to spending more time with the delightful Criss Medina and her family. 

Riconcito Kahlo is located on Medina next to Green Verde. For menu and hours check out www.mapchicks.com. Best money you will ever spend.

Kath’s quote: “Feet, what do I need you for when I have wings to fly?” — Frida Kahlo

Love never fails.

Written by Sister #3

I was joining my sister for dinner the other night and we decided to visit Kokonuts on Hidalgo as Sylvia of Sardinian Smile is now the new manager of Kokonuts. 

It’s a place I have always wanted to try and a favourite of my sister’s as it reminds her of her trips to Italy. I’m hoping to travel to Italy this year, and while I’m not likely to make it to the island of Sardinia, I’m anxious to soak up all things Italian as I dream about my trip. Owner Silvia shares her family’s traditional Sardinian dishes along with a variety of other selections that highlight the fresh products available on the island. 

Upon arrival we were greeted by Luciano who was a wonderful host. The set up of Kokonuts isn’t exactly the vibe you would expect for this fine Italian establishment. Inside feels like a bar with video screens and flashing lights. but we selected a table on the street to soak up the energy of Hidalgo.  The live music of Jesús Campuzano adding to our experience. We were grateful that Sylvia and her staff amalgamated with Kokonuts so we could still experience their food. 

We settled in with two-for-one mojitos that were a refreshing cocktail to start the evening.  We had a couple of appetizers recommended by Sylvia.

The crab cakes were crispy on the outside, tender inside and full of crab flavour. They didn’t need the tartar sauce but it was so yum that I ended up eating some of it with the cakes.

The pulpo a la gallega was amazing. A traditional dish from Galicia it reminded me of the tapas we ate in Spain. Tender chunks of locally caught octopus on tender potato slices, topped with olive oil and paprika. We added a kiss of salt to bring out its full flavour.

For our main we selected their lasagna, made with bolognese and béchamel sauces, it was rich and melt-in-your mouth.

But my favourite dish of the night was the ensalada Kokonuts, a romaine and cucumber salad with slices of crisp Granny Smith apple and chunks of mango. Topped with candied walnuts and perfectly seasoned shrimp. I will be back for that salad very soon. Served with scrumptious homemade buns it was simply perfection. 

If you need info about their hours, location and menu, please feel free to check out www.mapchicks.com

Kath’s quote: “This land resembles no other place. Sardinia is something else. Enchanting spaces and distances to travel-nothing finished, nothing definitive. It is like freedom itself.“-David Herbert Lawrence, Sea and Sardinia, 1921

Love never fails.

North Garden has long been on my favourite street in Centro-the street that leads to North Beach and perhaps that is one of the many reasons for their success. As you walk by, you can smell cinnamon buns and bagels being baked. That aroma sticks in your head but you are determined to get a prime spot on the beach (under a palm tree for shade), so you say to yourself  “On my way home, I am going to treat myself to lunch there” Then you may do, as I once did: I plunked myself in my chair from the hotel, but when the bottom fell out of it and I was splayed across the sand, I stood up and announced that I wasn’t going to stay anyway. I was on my way for breakfast at North Garden!

On this day, my brother and his wife joined me for breakfast. They had never been to North Garden and I love to get reactions to places from Newbies. They both admired the ambience of the garden. Don’t you just feel revitalized when you are surrounded by green? Instead of coffee, I opted for a green juice (chia, pineapple, cucumber, lime, orange and ginger) at which time I felt even more alive. Truth be told, I had recently shaken off the travel and settling in jags and had just started to be able to finish a sentence.

We commenced by sharing an amuse bouche of cinnamon roll French toast, with chocolate chips mixed right into the eggs. Chopped peacans garnished and enhanced the crunch. There was one each and it worked! My mouth was definitely amused and I was hungry for more. My husband D and I make a version of these at the Bread and Breakfast we sometimes help out at. I am going to suggest the B & B owners try the chocolate chips inclusion when I get home.

The breakfast menu is so extensive that I needed Brenda, one of the owners of the restaurant to guide us. She took the guess work out for us and we were delighted with her choices.

My brother had the Breakfast Bagel. Crispy bacon, orange yolked eggs, cheese, tomato, lettuce and chipotle mayonnaise on an in house baked bagel.

The bagels laid out in the window beside our table indicated all the varieties they bake. One of them could easily be breakfast itself on a future morning.

My sister-in-law was delighted when the eggs benedict were placed in front of her. It was exactly what she would have ordered if we had chosen ourselves. Their Pecana version, was expertly prepared (eggs were poached to still have a runny centre), as well as crispy bacon, spinach and tomato. They too were garnished with chopped pecans. She was slow to taste and savour, and you could definitely see that they were both enjoying their first visit to North Garden.

My breakfast plate was so laden with food that I could have shared it with at least one more person. The Hotcakes Trio came with lightly scrambled eggs as well as pancakes topped with bananas and Nutella! I honoured the kitchen by trying a couple of bites of the pancakes, but was really excited by the premise- made sausage that was also served. The chefs grilled a beautiful Argentinan style sausage made with brisket, garlic, chipotle and jalapeno chilies as well as mozzarella cheese, which deliciously bound the ingredients together. I am also a potato aficionado and the Garden’s breakfast potatoes are tossed in a delectable amount of olive oil and cooked until the inside is still sweet and the outside is crunchy. Perfecto.

Drop in anytime on your way to or from the beach!

For the hours, address and menu for North Garden check out www.mapchicks.com.

Kath’s quote: “Breakfast is everything. The beginning, the first thing. It is the mouthful that is the commitment to a new day, a continuing life.” – A. A. Gill

These sea glass hearts were collected by my friend Ann, who I have known for years but only met IRL recently. She was also dining at North Garden that morning.

Love never fails.