Food Musings

A Winnipeg blog about the joy of preparing food for loved ones and the shared joy that travel & dining brings to life.

Galway and Ard Bia at Nimmos

April27

We knew weeks in advance of our arrival in Ireland that we would be there in time for the Galway Food Festival.

We strategically chose Saturday to make the drive to Galway City.  We wandered down Quay and then High Street (which are both restricted to pedestrians only) to find the Festival Village.

Along the way we also came across the Galway Market.  In the end, when we arrived at the Festival we had a quick look around and then decided to head back to the market and the quaint shops of the outside mall.  Since the intent of the festival is the celebration of Galway as a good food destination with a strong focus on artisan, seasonal and local produce, the festival was a success, even though we decided not to stand in the lines at the individual booths.

In the mean time, we accidentally found Ard Bia at Nimmos.

I was enthralled by the amazing little space and by the name and went on line to find out the source.  Ard Bia was on Quay Street five years ago then moved into Nimmos and both places were run by the same owners for two years.  In 2008 they moved Ard Bia to the Nimmos building in the Spanish Arch. The space is now the combination of both Ard Bia and Nimmos.

We warmed up with tea and sweets and then ventured back to explore the town.

Browsing and shopping was wonderful fun as the shops were as beautiful on the outside as the inside.

Ard Bia on Urbanspoon

Kath’s quote: “A woman is like a tea bag — only in hot water do you realize how strong she really is.”-Nancy Reagan

The Ruins of Adare

April26

We wanted to spend the morning of Good Friday in a quiet manner.

The religious orders of old liked to settle on good land beside a river, and no less than three groups of monks made the countryside of Adare their home during the Middle Ages.

PK had planned on attending the Trinitarian Abey otherwise known as the “White Abbey” in the centre of the village.  It had been restored by the First Earl of Dunraven as a Roman Catholic Parish Church.  D and I were attending the Church of Ireland services that afternoon at the Augustinian Priory (or the Black Friars’ Abey) which was founded in 1315 by John, Earl of Kildare.

 So it was fitting that we spend the morning at the Franciscan Friary ruins in the demesne, beside the clubhouse of the Adare Manor Golf Course.  We understand that full tours of the ruins of Adare are available through the Adare Heritage Centre during peak vacation times.  In April though the best you can do (if you have anyone with mobility issues) is tour the Franciscan Friary Ruins.

 

After 1756 John Wesley paid several visits to Adare and the site of the tree where he preached is marked.  Here perhaps?  The quiet time that we spent at the ruins that Good Friday morning was absolutely fascinating.

Kaths quote: “Oh, God above, if heaven has a taste it must be an egg with butter and salt, and after the egg is there anything in the world lovlier than fresh warm bread and a mug of sweet golden tea?”-Fank McCourt

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Adare Manor Estate

April25

There was a gorgeous coffee table book of the Leading Hotels in the World in our villa living room.  As I flipped through I realized that the beautiful Hotel Negressa in Nice and the King David in Jerusalem, both of which I have visited were included.  As well, of course, as the Adare Manor Hotel.  I was determined to explore.

If you have been following these blog posts, you already know that I am a romantic; one of my favourite books from my youth being Whuthering Heights.  I was especially enthralled by the mysterious Catherine.  And as soon as I had the ability to shape my own persona, wanted to be addressed by Kathryne rather than the more common place name of Kathy.  

While D and I were waiting for DK & PK to arrive back from their day trip to Cork, we took the opportunity to tour the grounds of the magnificent Adare Manor estate-a place befitting of Catherine (or Kathryne) I was sure.  I would be in good company as I understand that Catherine Zeta Jones has also been a guest here.

We understand that the manor had been built by the second Earl of Dunraven in the 18th century and his wife Lady Caroline. At least a part of the vision of the Manor was to keep the villagers of Adare employed and fed through the potato famine.

By standing back and gazing back at the Manor, D discovered the dedication of the house which was incorporated into the roof-line parapet: “Except The Lord Build The House Then Labour Is But Lost That Built It”.

The golf course, designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr. is nothing short of exquisite with the trout-filled River Maigue running through the course and the estate.

I love everything about the sport of golf (except hitting the ball with a skinny stick) and have walked some beautiful courses.

The gardens in early April were grand and I could picture a round of archery or clay pigeon shooting being conducted here.

Some of the most magnificent trees I have ever seen (with the exception perhaps of the olive and cypress trees in the Jerusalem) are contained on the  840 acres of the Manor grounds.

I was especially enthralled by the 100 year old cork tree and now have new found respect for those vineyards who are moving to cork alternatives.

Sadly, Lord Dunraven died in 1862 before he  had seen the completion of the Manor, proving what I already know, that money does not buy health, or happiness (or love).

Kath’s quote: “Because love grows best in little houses,
With fewer walls to separate,
Where you eat & sleep so close together.
You can not help but communicate,
Oh, & if we had more room between us, think of all we would miss.
Love grows best, in houses just like this”. –
Doug Stone

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Wild Geese Restaurant-Adare Ireland

April23

As soon as we saw that there was an award winning restaurant in the village of Adare, we knew that we had to visit.  The Wild Geese has been included on Bridgestone’s top 100 restaurant in Ireland for the past 13 consecutive years.  D called to make a reservation and then we had to delay our arrival a number of times because the four of us had separate itineraries that day.  Having been in the restaurant business ourselves, we know that juggling last minute changes can be difficult to manage, but Julie handled our postponement with much grace.

As we entered Rose Cottage, we were escorted into comfortable sitting room with a cozy fire place and big comfy couches.  We choose a bottle of Les Jamelleo Merlot which was poured out and served with pitted black olives that had been smoked in brine.  These were such a treat that I searched them out while we were in Galway, purchased them and carried them all the way home to Canada in my suitcase.  While relaxing over our pre-dinner glasses, we were brought menus and asked to make our selections for the evening.  I am not sure if this is unusual in Ireland, it certainly would be considered so in Canada, and yet knowing that the Irish like to have their food arrive right away, this makes perfect sense.

Upon moving to a comfy table in the dining room, a server came by with a handled bread basket and then indicated each bread variety that was available.  I chose a Parmesan roll but all the choices were absolutely delicious.

But the truth is-they had me at the dishes.

The practice of serving an Amuse Bouche has become more common of late, but I am still as delighted as a little girl receiving a surprize birthday gift.  These were a pesto cheese a top a tiny biscuit, floating upon a red pepper puree-sublime.

First courses were a variety of little plates which were intended to be your own but because we are all food crazy, we love to share bites with everyone (what family is meant for).

There was Chicken Liver Parfait with orange segments and tomato chutney,

Duck & Vegetable Spring Rolls with a Japanese drizzle,

Goat Cheese baked with a light curry crust, balsamic and an apple puree.

And lastly, a Crusty Brie with a light pesto cream, pineapple/cucumber salsa and red pepper essence.  I could try to describe the potpourri of tastes but sometimes I just let the carefully selected ingredients (and photos) speak for themselves.  And this was just the first plates!

As I go back and unarchive my photos, scan my travel journal and check my notes-I can not for the life of me recall what I ordered that evening!  Perhaps I got chatting with Julie or telling some boisterous story and forgot to take a photo, before I tried to get caught up to everyone.  But here is the thing-it does not really matter what I had on my plate, I was with my beloved husband, brother and his wife and I took just as much pleasure watching them as they ate, then I know I would have enjoyed my own.  Does this make sense to you?

The table chose 3 ribs of Lamb which was served with a rosemary and garlic potato gratin and a rosemary juis for extra measure.

The Duck was accompanied by sweet potatoes and mushrooms.

Lastly, the Sirloin was tossed in garlic butter and came with a mushroom and Parmesan tarte and rosemary & garlic potato gratin.

There was definitely no room for dessert and sometime in the midst of our in-depth conversation with Julie, we realized that we were the last table in the restaurant, so it was definitely time for our short walk to the Manor gate.

Having met Julie we can see first hand the attention to detail and love of local food that she and her husband are committed too.  We know too (not because she was complaining) that it is an increasingly difficult time to be in the high end restaurant business with Ireland’s current economic conditions.  We wish Julie and David much success as their passion for food and the hospitality business is obvious from the very first time you walk into The Rose Cottage.

The Wild Geese Restaurant on Urbanspoon

Kath’s quote: “The best way to lose weight is to close your mouth – something very difficult for a politician. Or watch your food – just watch it, don’t eat it.”-Edward Koch

Limerick – Chocolat

April23

When my Dad and his family immigrated to Canada from eastern Europe, they settled in a place called Limerick, Saskatchewan.  I spent most summers there when I was growing up and had fond memories of doing so.  Many of the most vivid memories surround my little Polish Grandma’s food-potato soup cooling in bowls on the oil-cloth covered table, freshly killed chickens fried in boiling lard- producing the crispest and juiciest chicken I have ever tasted, poppy seed rolls, prune dumplings served with melted butter and cinnamon sugar, thimble cookies filled with raspberry jam, oh my, I should stop now.  None of memories connect me to Ireland, except that I have always longed to go to Limerick to see which community inspired the name of the prairie town that I came to love.

We dropped DK & PK off at the bus station for they were on their way to Cork for the day.

We were content to mosey around and passed by many Irish row houses with beautifully painted doors.  (Door images to come in a separate post).

We continued along the edge of the Shannon until we had a view of King John’s castle.

We were too early for a major market day but we poked around at the Milk Market anyway, imagining what it would be like when fishmongers and vegetable sellers set up their stalls there.

We stumbled upon a place for a cuppa tea and the sun found a way to peak through the downtown buildings.  We sat side by side and warmed up in the sun.

We ventured in and out of little shops until it was time to find some lunch.  A local fellow who hovered around the front door of  the lovely O’Mahony’s Bookstore where we spent quite some time (was he a hospitable manager, a doorman or a security cop?), recommend that we make our way to Chocolat which we found easily with his instructions.

We were nearing the end of our culinary adventures and so made our decision on what to order based on what was left on our “must try” list.  For me it was Bangers & Mash and for D it was duck.  We ordered and shared both.

The Bangers were made with pork and leeks and were perfectly grilled with onions and then placed upon a heap of creamy mashed potatoes.  The savoury onion gravy was a lovely indulgence.

The Aromatic Duck Salad was a tossing of pine nuts, mixed leaves and hoisin dressing.  We loved the pepperiness of the endive which offset the sweetness of the hoisin.

Chocolat Restaurant on Urbanspoon

 

We spent a lovely,  but too short time in Limerick.  Next time, well be sure to take in a rugby match (D even purchased a jersey)-go Munster go!  We encountered a bit of a traffic snarl on the way back to Adare….

Kath’s quote:  “No wonder you’re so bony Joe, and skinny as a rake. Well then, give us a bash at the bangers and mash me mother used to make”-sung by Peter Sellers & Sophia Loren

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