I am amazed when I return to the island 11 months after I last visited and find a whole new resort in a place when none existed the year before. Case in point: Bahai Del Rey. I understand that it was an onerous task to peel back vegetation on the shoreline and then stabilize it to add a marina. I imagine that the yacht owners were pleased to have another place to moor in calm waters. When we enjoyed a sunset cruise last year, I was surprised at all the boats that have permanent homes in the inlet between Sac Baho and Medina.

We walked to the end of the dock after being seated at an enormous dining platform where we sat in cushioned Adirondack chairs (I guess they don’t call them that here).

After dinner Mauicio escorted us to a second story palapa, (overlooking the dining palapa) that when finished, can host private events (like weddings) when they won’t have to close the main facility to accommodate them.

I imagine that many guests will appreciate this because there are different zones that you would consider using daily (and there is no day pass charge): a kids spray pad,

a beautiful “everybody welcome” pool with a waterfall at one end, the bar where a corn hole tournament goes on every Wednesday and then the zone where we dined at the water’s edge that could be designated “adults only”. On Thursdays they feature Ken Wanovich on guitar and cook up Barbeque Ribs, Friday there is music from the 60 and 70’s and they serve burgers with a “fixins” buffet! There are working on being opening for breakfast in another couple of weeks. It has the potential to become your “one stop shop” with all their plans.

Our friend Melinda says: “I would be tempted to come frequently for a beer and Coconut Shrimp at sunet” if I could. She pronounced them the best she had ever tasted on the island.

Which is the perfect segue to why we were actually there….the food!

We started with a “from scratch” guacamole that was much appreciated as we are beginning to determine which restaurants use the premade option.

I am a confessed mango lover and Bahai Del Ray’s Shrimp Ceviche is elevated by nuggets of my favourite fruit. So too, the ceviche was not drowning in lime marinade as is sometimes the case (certainly with the version that I make at home).

Richard indulged in a burger and since I have tasted the wicked burgers that he makes on his barbeque, this was high praise: The meat was properly seasoned and cooked. Cheese, lettuce & tomato were all fresh & tasty. His only suggestion would be a smaller bun to better align the meat/bun ratio.

As mentioned above, Melinda was so pleased with her Coconut Shrimp that she generously shared them so we could appreciate them too. Bless her as when I eat something that delicious, I am the opposite when it comes to sharing. She made mention too of the scrumptious mango chipotle sauce that was served alongside for dipping. I even have a coconut shrimp to enjoy at lunch with our other leftovers!

D loves whole fish and especially the grouper that is served on the island. It was perfectly prepared so that the delicate fish tastes were not overcome by the breading or frying. He picked the fish clean (remember he is one of 7 children) and then I could see his delight as he flipped the fish over and got to start again on the second side!

I understand that octopus is not for everyone but it was recommended by Mau so I was happy to oblige. The spicy, curled legs were juicy all the way along which is a difficult fete when one end is broad and the other tapers to the tinniest morsel. The seafood came with salad and Mexican rice and when I heard that Bahai del Rey makes their own bread, I asked to sample some.

We were accommodated with a sample of their garlic toast and oh my, it was perfection! Too bad my four-year-old grandson wasn’t on the island as well-prepared garlic toast is his favourite food!

I neglected to mention the drinks that we started with! Richard had a Classic Margarita with a lovely flower garnish,

Melinda an Aperol Spritz

and I enjoyed a Cadillac Margarita but the big hit was D’s Watermelon Margarita, for its beauty as well as taste!

I often speak of the sacrifice that Isla Restaurant operators make, Mau has not had a day off for months and he shared that he looks forward to that time so that he can go visit his kids…in Germany!

Insider Tip: Their menu is a work of art! The photos and graphic design make it look like it came from an upscale Manhattan Advertising Agency. Don’t order too quickly so that you can linger over the beautiful images.

Kath’s quote: “There’s pineapple shrimp, lemon shrimp, coconut shrimp, pepper shrimp, shrimp soup, shrimp stew, shrimp salad, shrimp and potatoes, shrimp burger, shrimp sandwich. That- that’s about it”. -Forrest Gump

Love never fails.

Today was my first visit to el meraki. My sister Kathryne went last year and still raves about it. And now I understand her affection. 

As you walk down the narrow entrance, the restaurant’s courtyard suddenly unfolds into a beautiful space with seating around an ancient tree. I love the rustic decor and the open kitchen. Besides the restaurant, there is a second floor sanctuary that offers a quiet place to read, mediate or enjoy a beverage or your food. The space is used for yoga, spiritual consultations, intimate musical and dance performances and has hosted pottery and sushi making classes. It’s meant to be a communal space that is shared. 

What Kath, and now I, enjoyed the most, is el meraki co-creator, Andrea. Swiss born, she first heard about the island from her mother who started visiting 25 years ago. Her mother brought her and the family 12 years ago and fell in love with the place. She moved here 3 and a half years ago, opening El Meraki in December of 2023.

We started by ordering beverages. I had the juice of the day, which was passion fruit and mint. My friend had the water of the day which was pineapple. They were both so refreshing. 

Deciding what to have to eat was not easy as there were a lot of delicious sounding choices. This vegan restaurant also offers lots of gluten free options. There is also a “Mexican dish” which changes seasonally and based on the cooks creativity and imagination. The day we visited they had vegetable tacos on offer. 

I decided to try the “Sweet Dream”; chick pea crepes, topped with a cashew cream and sweet cooked apples. I’m not one for anything overly sweet and this was perfect and full of flavour. 

My friend ordered the “Isla-Bowl”; a smoothie of banana, almond butter, protein powder, and spirulina, it was full of pineapple, papaya, and apple and topped with homemade granola. Andrea shared the vision for the bowl, the fruit is like all the treasures in the sea, the green smoothy, made with spirulina powder, a blue-green algae full of protein, vitamins and antioxidants, represents the sea itself. And the granola floating on top is like the island. Food as art!  I love when people think so deeply about what they present. Best part was it was super tasty and more than my friend could finish for breakfast. 

A fellow sitting next to us, visiting the island from London (England not Canada), thoroughly enjoyed an omelette, the restaurants one vegetarian option, that he requested be  filled with sautéed peppers, spinach, and onions. 

Next visit I’m going to have the “Sunrise of Memories”; oatmeal-banana pancakes with agave syrup and fresh fruit. A sure sign I loved the food, when I’m busy deciding on what to order for my next meal there. 

I so enjoyed chatting with Andrea. She has such a heart for the island.  She shows her care by offering fresh and healthy food and hosting events to improve people’s physical, mental and spiritual health. She talked about her dream of finding ways to increase sustainability on the island. Perhaps one day someone will let her set up a small community garden on their land. 

I absolutely cannot wait till the next time my vegan family members are on the island. They are going to absolutely love this place. 

In a video on El Meraki’s instagram, Andrea says “Do what you love and you will sparkle with that heart energy” That’s the energy I experience in Isla. And you can see that Andrea too is doing what she loves in the way she sparkles. 

Insider tip: If you stay in Centro, use that communal space as if it were your home. And then tell everyone you know about the oasis of el meraki!

Kath’s quote: Meraki is a Greek word meaning, “when you do something with love, creativity, and soul; putting a piece of yourself into what you do.” 

Love never fails.

I am starting with a reference to a post from 2024: “There are some readers here as well as my circle back home, that wonder why on earther I would holiday at the same place year after year for 20 years. Here on Isla Mujeres I have met so many people who have been coming here longer, come here more times a year and many more that stay longer than my cherished month. They get it. Don’t get me wrong, I know that it is a big world out there and I am blessed to say I have travelled to many places and hope to see many more. Isla is not a holiday for me, as strange as that sounds. It is even better. It is where I live; it is my home; it is my happy place for one month a year. You either get it or you don’t get it.”

Besides the people that draw us here every year (the locals, the ex pats, the other travelers), there is the food! Some of it is excitingly new. But equally so, is the fare we have enjoyed trip after trip. I cannot recount the times we have visited Rafael at Green Verde. His face lights up as we enter his well-loved restaurant, he lets us choose a favourite table and when we open the menu, we sigh in satisfaction that our much loved recipes are still there.

We started with cocktails. Green Verde’s artisan cocktails are worthy of mention, especially the Mezcal del Sur which D requested. A hibiscus house syrup, a touch of cinnamon and chile ancho created a smokey, complex drink that D adored. Green Verde is the only place on the island where this beverage is served.

I selected the frozen pineapple Margarita and was equally enamoured.

Since D arrived after me to the island, he hadn’t yet had a feed of ceviche. Greenverde’s mix of fish and shrimp was not swimming in lime juice but appropriately kissed with it. The sturdy chips allowed for large scoops as the bowl was enormous.

I now realize how often I order the same dish because I read through my own blog posts recently. I love the Mezcal Shrimp: first marinated in green sauce and then flamed in tequila, they were delectable when served on a bed of mashed sweet potato, alongside Mexican rice and fried plantains.

D and Richard both loved the Tequila Ribs-they were flavourful and fell off the bone. They were especially delighted with the buttery mashed potatoes and sauteed cactus, onions and carrots that were served as sides.

Melinda opted for Red Mole with Chicken. Green Verde’s mole recipes are authentically made with toasted chilies and vegetables.

Did you know that there are at least six colours of mole? The following is from the Que Rica Vida blog site:

• Black mole: Made with nuts, fruits, chiles, cinnamon, hoja santa (sacred leaf) and plenty of chocolate.
• Red mole: Similar to black and Mole Poblano. Its colors and taste depend on the chiles used, like guajillo.
• Green mole: Pumpkin seeds, cilantro and tomatillos are among the ingredients used.
• Yellow mole: Soft, spicy and without chocolate.
• Mole coloradito: Very similar to red mole, but sweeter because it’s made with plantains.
• Mancha manteles: It’s got it all! Sweet and sour, savory and spicy hues. Ingredients include chile ancho and pineapple.

We ordered one Lemon Pie and four forks for dessert. “Lemon” was lost in translation because what we were received was a luscious frozen pie of lime with vanilla ice cream and it was delicious!

The newest entertainment at the restaurant is Rafael and Paula’s beautiful daughter Lulu. I think that she was supposed to be sleeping but she packed up her backpack and pulled up a chair at our table. When we left soon after, she was blowing kisses from her Daddy’s arms.

I am in awe of how the Isla’s local restaurant operators manage. Staff shortages have to be managed by bringing in family members to help. There are no deep-funded investors behind these little gems. When I say they devote their life to the restaurant, I mean it literally! Bless them all.

Insiders tip: if you want to compare and contrast the moles, order the tricoloured moles. I have in the past and they are fabulous.

Kath’s quote: “Cooking with love provides food for the soul.” Authour Unknown

Love never fails.

There are so many excellent restaurants on Isla Mujeres. These days, I stay for two months, giving me lots of time to visit a lot of places. Writing for this blog and the Isla Mujeres’ Food Facebook group gives me lots of opportunities to eat at a lot of places. I could easily eat three meals a day in a restaurant and still have plenty of places I couldn’t get to. So the competition is stiff. 

There are a couple of places I will frequent more than a few times every trip. One of those places is Fredys Bar and Restaurant. Opened in 1996 by Fredy Poot Ucan, Fredys has become an Isla institution and Fredy has become my dear friend. We met almost 20 years ago. 

 Over the years Fredy has helped my family celebrate all kinds of events. Thankfully he always accommodates our requests for a table of 12 or more of our family and friends.

The year my niece got married on the island there must have been close to 30 of us. Kath & Doug have even had Fredy’s Pork Chop for Christmas dinner at Fredy’s one year. They brought their kids that Christmas and their first grandbaby even had her first solid food at Fredy’s-a pork chop bone!

And in turn, Fredy has always included our family in his Anniversary celebrations. 2026 will mark 30 years and he’s already been busy planning. 

Fredy has not achieved his success alone. His wife Anna is at his side. And you’ll often find his kids pulling shifts to help out.

This particular night that we visited, his youngest Mindy was pulling double duty. Bartending during her break dancing with her troupe for Carnival.

Fredy is famous for his double bone-in pork chop which is grilled to absolute perfection. Photo pending.

His fish and seafood are always fresh. Everything is make from scratch. Or as Fredy would say “not from Costco”!  We have always loved that his mains are served with potatoes and fresh vegetables sautéed in butter.  

So if you’ve yet to visit Fredys, located at the Northern most block of Hidalgo, let me highly recommend it. Not only for the fantastic food and the kick a$$ margaritas but to meet the man himself. He’s quite a character with a heart of gold. 

Insider Tip: Fredy often cooks ribs on Saturdays over peak season.

Kath’s quote: “Although the skills aren’t hard to learn, finding the happiness and finding the satisfaction and finding fulfillment in continuously serving somebody else something good to eat, is what makes a really good restaurant.-Author Unknown

Love never fails.

My husband and I were not together this Valentine’s Day. He was working away in Canada and I had just arrived on Isla Mujeres for two weeks with my siblings. I decided to surprize D with something special on the day of his arrival. I had seen Facebook images of Valentine Boxes filled with glorious goodies and it was exactly the way that D and I like to eat.

When D was a poor student living in Toronto and I would visit him, we would go to an enormous deli in the basement of the Eaton Centre and order little bits of this and that and make it our supper. That was a very long time ago. An interesting tidbit in the full “circle of life” is that when D and I guest host at a Bed and Breakfast back home in Canada, I am responsible for making up the charcuterie boards! I even have a charcuterie “cook”book called “Boards”. So allow me to just say…I know my charcuterie!

The charcuterie box that was delivered promptly, as previously arranged and was chock full of two kinds of meat, four varieties of cheeses, grapes, raspberries, blackberries, square pretzels, wheat crackers, Tulum honey, pistachios, olives, dried apricots & cranberries!

The creator of these great boxes is Tahymi of TTB Cheese Boards & Select Charcuterie affiliated with one of our favourite colonia restaurants-Queen Macabi.

Tahymi is willing to add champagne or red wine to the box when you order.  Talk about convenience!

D and I started out nibbling on goodies on the west facing little terrace of our villa. Once the sun set we moved around back to continue to enjoy the savoury treats to the sound of crashing waves. The grin on D’s was from ear to ear. I knew that I had treated him to something very special.

You don’t need to order a box as a romantic gift, you could join your besties for sunset on Centro beach or have a family picnic.

Insider tip: When you arrive on Isla Mujeres, you could order a box for your fridge instead of consuming everything in one meal as we did. This way you could have a taste of honey with your morning coffee, a casual lunch around the pool and wine and treats at sunset. The conveniences of ordering from TTB are many: 1. You don’t have to take away from your day to shop 2. You don’t have to prep all the items, especially if your hotel room doesn’t have a kitchenette 3. You get small quantities of many selections, so you are not filling up that precious fridge space with packets of food and 4. Isn’t it wonderful to know that your food has been lovingly assembled?

Kath’s quote: Charcuterie is French for ”I’d like a sandwich, but I don’t have any bread”. –@Chrchurmudgeon

Love never fails.