Recently, I had the opportunity to attend a media preview of this new Exchange District Tour.  We assembled in Steven Juba Park across from Carnaval Brazilian Barbeque and I was hoping that it would be our first stop as I have enjoyed tapas in the lounge but had never been upstairs to check out the dining area.

We walked past the huge rotisserie area as we made our way to our table and I stopped for a moment to see the cuts of meat and sausages and pineapple twirling around.

When we are on Isla Mujeres my favourite taco is called “Taco al Pastor” where thinly sliced marinated pieces of pork are cooked on a vertical shishkabob while rotating next to an open flame.  The only time I had seen meat cooked in this manner was while I was travelling in the Middle East.  With research I discovered that indeed Lebanese immigrants to Mexico brought this technique for cooking lamb and the Mexicans adapted it for pork.  As a result, back in the 1960’s this same dish was called Tacos Arabes (Arab Tacos) but for some reason has been renamed.  Speculation is that the original use of lamb is the connecting nuance because “pastor” means shepherd.  On Isla Mujeres the pork is often layered with rings of pineapple and sliced off the rotating skewer all at once so in my mind I have always associated “Pastor” as having something to do with pineapple-boy, was I off.  Can you follow my musings here?  Carnaval cooks both pork and pineapple on their rotating skewers and so the taste reminded me of Mexico and the Middle East at the same time.

In addition to the pork and pineapple, I also loved the skirt steak (there are 14 cuts of meat served in total).  There are also over a dozen sides on the menu and all the ones that we sampled were from the cold section.  Somehow almost every dish was empty by the time it arrived where I was sitting so that I missed out on the Chickpea Salad, the Hearts of Palm Salad and the Kale & Broccoli Salad.  What I thought must have been the Panzanella (sometimes called Tuscan bread Salad) made with Bononcini, croutons and tomatoes was also only tomatoes by the end of its rounds.  I express this disappointment because if they were anything like the Mixed Field Green Salad or the Arugula, Raisin and Pumpkin Seed Salad that I did get to sample, they would have been very fine indeed.  Without further delay I should mention the excellent Brazilian Cab Sav that accompanied our first courses.

When we met up with owner Noel Bernier at our next stop, he explained that the location for Carnaval was obtained three years before it opened.  Noel wanted it to be a place where “original gauchos” could bring their style of cooking and eating to Winnipeg.  Noel’s fiancé from Brazil works at Carnaval as well as manager Fabio who we also had an opportunity to meet.

While we sipped another excellent wine at Hermanos, this one a full-bodied Stagnari Tannat from Uruguay (the tannat grape was originally imported from France but is now considered the national grape of Uruguay), Noel continued with his story: he puts the most importance on Hermanos because it was only through a labour of love that it reached its current success.  In fact, Noel’s mission was to “celebrate the heart of South American food”.  He does not want Hermanos to be considered an “ethnic” restaurant per se, but a South American fusion restaurant with a Canadian influence.

Take the dish “Peru Meets Manitoba” for instance.  Noel suggests that it was the Peruvians that invented ceviche-the method of “cooking” fish and seafood in a lime marinade instead of over heat.  I am crazy about ceviche, eating it almost daily while on Isla Mujeres (hope that you can tolerate my Isla fixation) but had never been to a restaurant that was bold enough to attempt it on a local fish.  I thought that pickerel might be too delicate to hold its own against the lime juice but oh no-it is a perfect marriage, made better by the coupling.

I also loved the sausage board where a chorizo style sausage was served with grilled bread and peppers declaring a bold taste statement.  Sausages are the perfect way to use every part of the animal.  Since Noel indicates that the South American culture is very “farm-focused”, this is not at all surprising.  Farmers are the most resourceful people in the world and in my opinion, if I am to be a carnivore, I think that using every possible part of the animal is respectful and ethical.

The tenderized and breaded beef called Milanesa was also a multi-cultural phenomena.  Wikipedia indicates:

The milanesa was brought to the Southern Cone of South America by Italian immigrants during the mass emigration called the Italian diaspora between 1860-1920s. Its name probably reflecting an original Milanese preparation cotoletta alla milanese, which is similar to the Austrian Wiener Schnitzel.

Who knew?

Similarly, an empanada comes from the Spanish verb meaning empanar, meaning to wrap or coat in bread.  I thought that Hermanos’ version was closer to a samosa which would also be authentic as Wikipedia (isn’t it a handy resource?) states:

Empanadas and the similar calzones are both believed to be derived from the Indian meat-filled pies, samosas.

I tasted both the beef and black bean variety as well as the chicken and sausage and could not decide which I like the best.  What I did know with certainty was that the Tannat held its own when swigged after each taste of beef and which is consistent with its Uruguay popularity because beef is consumed more extensively in South America than anywhere else in the world.

Before the entourage departed for Corrientes Argentiene Pizzeria, Noel reminded us that these restaurants were never intended to be “chef-focused” but to be a home for persons from South America who wanted to showcase their talents.  Not surprisingly, we were greeted by another handsome South American when we arrived at the comfortable pizzeria.  Sylvio, who is a recent arrival to Canada was assisted by Cynthia who explained that the design of Corrientes was to replicate a popular neighbourhood in Buenos Airies (which Noel earlier declared was to him the most fascinating city on earth).  She also explained that there are many “Corriente” streets in various Argentiene communities.  The beautiful building which is home to the this third café is one of the oldest in the city having been built in 1882.

I had sampled their excellent pizza on previous visits and had learned about the influx of Italians to Argentina after World War II.  A delicious hazelnut and chocolate dessert, called Gianduia was served.  I, who can typically resist desserts, lapped up every dollop and then sat back to savour an Argentiene Malbec-once again: stellar.

I hadn’t expected to be so impressed with the Exchange tour from both the perspective of the historical significance and what I learned and tasted in the way of food.  But more than anything, it was Noel Bernier’s passion for Winnipeg’s exchange district and the food that he loves that impressed me most.

Kath’s quote: “The best fertilizer is the footprint of the farmer.” anonymous

Love-that is all.

 

 

It has been months since I wrote part one of this Day 9 Trip Report and what have I been busy with? We’ve lived through the most severe winter on the Canadian prairies in over a century; we’ve successfully renovated and sold my mother’s home of 58 years; we have opened up our little beach house for another season and the Wee One continues to grow and delight us.  We have already booked our time on Isla in 2015 and so I thought that it was high time to focus on getting my 2014 reports completed. We’ll see how this goes.

From Part 1: When our family is with us, we spend a lot of time in Centro but as soon as they depart, we find ourselves drawn to the Colonias for long walks through the neighbourhoods.  On this day, we actually walked into Colonias twice-once to reacquaint ourselves with the exact locale of Deysi & Raul’s and the next time to actually dine there.

Overlooking one of the Salinas.

Gorgeous blossoms were everywhere.

I love the blue paint used on Isla-doors and windows duplicate the colour of the sea.

There are explosions of colour everywhere, here at a local produce vendor.

The painting of this stucco must have been pain-staking work.

There is one specific place in the Colonias where you can see the sea to the west with Cancun in the distance

while the Atlantic is just a glance to the east.

This is the ocean view just steps away from some of the Colonia’s homes.

More blossoms and more bright blue paint.  I can’t get enough of either.

A tribute to motherhood in the zocolo.

We walked back to our “home” on the airport strip, had a lunch of left overs, read and rested in the hammocks and then lapped up the exquisite sunset before venturing back to the Colonias again.

Our long-awaited destination.

The view from our table perch at this wonderful family restaurant.

We started with chicken tortilla soup.

Delicious sautéed veggies with the meat and cheese in the fajitas.

You could literally make a meal of the fixings.

Adorned with pico de gallo and one of many delicious sauces.

Kath’s quote: “Now shall I walk or shall I ride? ‘Ride,’ Pleasure said; ‘Walk,’ Joy replied.” ― W.H. Davies

Love-that is all.

To say there are lots of dining options on Isla Mujeres would be a huge understatement. Trying to narrow down your selection is a challenge when you only have a two week stay. How do you try out the latest hot spot, that tiny little loncheria you have been wanting to try for years, and at the same time, visit your favourites?  There are places I love because of the atmosphere, places I love because of the staff, and places I love because of the food. Bring all three of those things together and you have Limón. 

 

Located in the home of Sergio Cortreras Martinez and Charrissa Gillingham, going to dinner at Limón feels much like being invited to the home of friends for an elegant back yard barbeque.  We have always been fortunate to get a table in the courtyard and being we are often a party of 10 or more that is quite an accomplishment.  I always look forward to getting caught up with Sergio.  His hosting skills are not just about providing you with a lovely setting, great drinks and delicious food, but with fascinating stories of life in Mexico.  So great atmosphere, check, great people, check… now on to the food. 

 

Our gang started the evening with a round of hibiscus margaritas.  Yes, that’s right, hibiscus is used in food and beverages in Mexico and adds a delightful floral note to everything it touches.

 

On this visit I knew I had to try the tortilla soup.  My niece had it the previous year and spent the entire time between visits dreaming of this soup. Because our reservation at Limón was to take place after she left the island, we made a special trip to pick up a bowl to go that she and another niece enjoyed on their last day.  A base of tomato and juajillo chilli, this bowl of yumminess is chuck full of fried tortilla strips, cheese, chunks of avocado and ancho chilli rings. Creamy and hearty with just the right amount of heat.  I also had the vegetable tempura served with tartar sauce and wasabi.  Because Charrissa is a vegetarian, Limón has lots of meat free options to choose from.

 

Another in our party looking for a lighter dinner selection had the tuna lettuce wraps followed by the impressive caprese tower.

The meat lovers in the gang enjoyed the apricot and pineapple glazed pork tenderloin, cilantro chicken, and the rosemary kababs; a trio including skewers of beef, chicken and shrimp. The oohs and aahs around the table were a sure sign that no one was disappointed with their selection. 

The seafood options we tried this visit included the coconut shrimp and the marinera, a perfect plate of pasta with shrimp, octopus, mussels and squid rings.  Definitely on my wish list for next year.

 

Every plate was as beautiful to look at as it was to eat.  Little touches like the addition of a spring roll here and a bacon-wrapped chilli there bring the food to that next level.   It’s also fun to visit with Serg as he is preparing your meal on his grill just across the courtyard from our table. 

 

We were all stuffed at the end of the meal but a few members of our table insisted we indulge in the grilled pineapple with banana ice cream for dessert.  So two orders and 9nine spoons were soon delivered to our table.  It was the perfect ending to the perfect evening.  Needless to say Limón is top of the list for every year to come. 

Kath’s quote: “To invite someone is to take charge of his happiness during the time he spends under your roof.”-Jean-Antheleme Brillat-Savarin

Love-that is all.

Guess how we started our day?

When our family is with us, we spend a lot of time in Centro but as soon as they depart, we find ourselves drawn to the Colonias for long walks through the neighbourhoods.  On this day, we actually walked into Colonias twice-once to reacquaint ourselves with the exact locale of Deysi & Raul’s and the next time to actually dine there.

I have fun on these walks using different filters and settings on my camera.

Some photos, though, just speak for themselves.

No wonder Isla was dubbed one of the most colourful towns on earth.

I love the sun through the trees and am fascinated by shadows on the island.

These vintage tiles were re-used for a kind of sidewalk.

Aren’t the reflections in the glass fascinating?

These are only half of the photos that I took on this day.  Some have to be reformatted as they are too large.  So, I will post these for now and continue with part two after I do some more work.

In the mean time…..

Kath’s quote: “Begin doing what you want to do now. We are not living in eternity. We have only this moment, sparkling like a star in our hand-and melting like a snowflake…” Francis Bacon Sr.

Can you see the hearts in this sun rise-not one but two to doubly bless our day?

Love that is all.

 

We waited patiently for another glorious sunrise.

We were rewarded beautifully with the commencement of another splendid day.

D could have happily spent the entire time, just so.  But I managed to talk him into venturing to North Beach.

I wanted to spend some time with my brother and his wife and I knew exactly where to find them on the beach.  This was what my sister-in-law had waited for, for months.

My brother has opposite colouring to mine-he with black hair, dark brown eyes and skin that just loves to soak up the sun.  Me with blue eyes, fair hair and freckled skin.

I had made Clubhouse sandwiches for lunch with left over rotisserie chicken, excess Canadian bacon from our Olympic hockey breakfast, the reddest/freshest market tomatoes and lime mayonnaise.  They were so delicious that two separate groups of people asked us where they could buy the same sandwiches.

As the sun started to descend in the afternoon sky, D was back in his favourite spot.

We watched the setting sun as we walked along Medina to meet our extended gang at La Brisas on the water for dinner.

What  a beautiful sight right from our table set on the beach.

J2 and the Wee One joined us.  We hadn’t seen them all day and we had missed them.

 

Both D and the Wee One’s Other Grandma ordered and loved the garlic fish.  Unfortunately the latter’s wasn’t served with the rest of us.  After Sister #3 firmly expressed our disappointment to the kitchen, they quickly responded.  By this time though, Wee One was long past her bedtime and they had to make a quick exit.

Sister #3 and I both ordered frutti de mare linguine.  She accurately pointed out that the kitchen had been a bit too heavy handed with the chicken stock and the dish was a bit on the salty side.  The noodles and seafood were both cooked perfectly and I was pleased with the abundance of both.

My sister in law and Dona both ordered the fried fish, encouraged by D who had savoured it on his snorkelling trip.

J2 did enjoy her chicken fajitas until she had to high tail it back to the hotel with an overtired baby.

In the mean time, there was still lots of evening left, so headed to one of Centro’s many fine gelato shops, this one right at the corner of Hidalgo and the square.

Sister #3 delighted with her choice and another remarkable day.

Kath’s quote: “Ice cream is exquisite. What a pity it isn’t illegal.”-Voltaire

Love-that is all.