We have a tradition as soon as we get off of the ferry on Isla. We immediately (with suitcases in hand) head to Bally Hoo. This year it didn’t work out as I arrived late in the day and the rest of my entourage was waiting for an additional ferry to arrive. When D stepped off the ferry a week later it was late in the evening so that didn’t work out either.

Here are some previous visits from the Food Musings Archives:

2010

2011

2012

2013

2014

2015

The day after D’s arrival though, we were meeting a couple of old friends who were about to spend a week with us on the island. They arrived at lunch time and were hungry. When we asked them where they might like to go for lunch, they immediately said-Bally Hoo!

It didn’t take them long to decide what to order: one of them chose the shrimp tacos and the other the fish ones so that they could trade and share. They were happy that they selected tastes that are so entrenched in why we all love the island. We had just been to Mango’s for breakfast so unfortunately we couldn’t partake. But we happily got caught up with them as we sipped ice cold cervesas.

We would share a meal with them almost every day of their trip but this first one was very special with the excitement of just arriving on the island and the reuniting of four very old friends.

Kath’s quote: “To reminisce with my old friends, a chance to share some memories, and play our songs again,”. -Ricky Nelson

Love never fails.

We were reluctant to leave North Beach on such a glorious beach day, but we eventually made our meander back to Luna ‘Miel on the airport road.

We hopped into the shower and then walked the sea wall back into Centro.

Our destination was the artist’s fair in the square (update: I understand that artist fairs now take place at the Cultural Centre). We were so impressed with all of the talent an did lots of shopping for the gang back home. I especially appreciated the photography and sea glass pieces.

It was a great turn out of tourists and ex-pats.

It was a bit of a wait to get ourselves a light dinner in the square but with so many people to visit, we were content just to hang. We noshed on pizza slices, sliders, shrimp & octopus empanadas, pork tacos and Barlito’s cinnamon bread pudding with bourbon caramel sauce for dessert. A moveable feast!

Shadows were lengthening an it was time to make our way to Bally Hoo for sunset.

There are many lovely spots to witness sunset on Isla but we especially enjoy Bally Hoo to watch the fishing boats come in and enjoy the pier and the gulls.

Bally Hoo’s amazing mango margaritas were another reason to visit. Our new friends Jan and Michelle from Luna d’Miel couldn’t believe how big they were.

Friends Bob and Joyce were there as well. They were meeting new guests who were delegates of the women’s conference which takes place on Isla every year. We kept pulling tables together an in the end there were 12 of us enjoying our “Grande” margaritas. Those that hadn’t filled up on dinner in the square, enjoyedd Bally Hoo’s legendary fish tacos.

We stopped into Casa el Pio for some moon gazing on our way home.

For our next visit (soon!), we are staying at Villas San Miguel which will put us close to the cultural centre for the artist’s fair, walks to see the sunset and so much more.

Kath’s quote: “Nothing goes with a hot tan like a cool margarita.” –Unknown

Love never fails.

Autumn is officially upon us and although beautiful, I know what is on its way to the Canadian prairies.  To warm me up, I remembered that I still had a couple of Trip Reports to finish off.  

So, meanwhile back to my recounting of Day 11 on Isla…… If you recall, the gorgeous, clear day suddenly was interrupted with torrents of rain.  Since this was our last full day on Isla, we were undaunted and kept our plans for our progressive dinner in Centro.  This is often how we spend our last full day.  Not only were we trying to make every minute count but we were still trying to check every taste and locale off of our “must try” list.  So we donned our ponchos and headed out into the torrential rain.  The dollar store ponchos that we had packed from home worked well but not our leather shoes in the flooded streets. There was some intriguing action going on in Centro that day.  We walked by Hemingway’s which had closed messages taped all over it.  There were sniffer dogs and big burly guys with guns under their ponchos, helmets and masks.  It was like a scene from a movie, the likes of which we have never encountered back home in the centre of Canada.  But I was comforted that crime is appropriately dealt with on the island and that as long as we kept our own proverbial noses clean, we should never have to encounter such a scene. It was too early for dinner or even appetizers, so we made the rounds where our other family members were staying to say our good-byes.  Our first stop was my brother’s hotel Los Arcos right on Hidalgo.  They too have been coming to Isla for years and he and my beloved sister-in-law love being right in the heart of the action.  He pours an amazing rum and coke to which D gleefully accepted.  I imbibed in a glass of vino tinto and some chips and salsa (trying to be polite but knowing that I had hours of eating ahead).  Our second stop was on the south perimeter of the zocolo at Sister #3’s at Casa el Pio.  She too has her favourite spot where she has stayed, year after year.  More glasses of vino tinto were poured along with the island’s delicious potato chips and onion dip.

After we departed, our progressive dinner began in earnest with a stop at our favourite spot at Bally Hoo (I was the only one in our entourage who hadn’t been) for fish and chips and mango margaritas.

At our next stop at Roca Mar we sat on the covered balcony for shrimp ceviche and Sols.

J2’s Mom agreed to babysit the Wee One so that J2 could join us for the entrée course.

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We loved everything about Abuelo’s including the brightly covered napkins that wrapped around the cervezas-a little touch that added some colour to the grey night.

J2 loved the pina coolada with fresh juices.

The place is teeny but welcoming and cozy.

We were amazed by the quality of the food that came out of the equally teeny kitchen.

D chose the whole red snapper and was blown away.

 J2 decided upon the seafood kabobs and was delighted that the fish was skewered with fresh whole strawberries.

Abuelo means grandfather and the restaurant is aptly run by three generations.  We had heard not only how fabulous the food was but that it was lovingly presented.  Everything we heard was absolutely right.   Complimentary chocolate flan was delivered to us all for dessert -even me who hadn’t ordered an entrée.  We can’t wait to go back to Abuelo’s. We carried on with more vino tinto at Don Cheapo’s.

We strolled up and down Hidalgo to help digest our supper and make room for another dessert!

Our niece had been to the island in the New Year and her favourite spot was Café Hidalgo.

Gorgeous crepes were lovingly created by a hippie lad who considered each plate a work of art.  J2 selected nutella, banana and real shredded coconut .  I chose the sugar and lime with strawberries and just whipped, cream.  We were so impressed with how homey the café was with books and games to help you pass a rainy day or if you were dining on your own.  Another spot that we will definitely go back to. By this time it was late, and if you recall, we had started the day hours ago in part one of this recounting.  J2 invited us to their balcony at Roca Mar to sip a Kahlua but in spite of our intent to fit extra minutes into our last full day, we had to admit that it was time to make the stroll home one last time.

Kath’s quote: “I am not a glutton — I am an explorer of food.”-Erma Bombeck

Love-that is all.

There are many topics that I could write about today but I choose to start my recollections of our wonderful time on Isla Mujeres.  This is the snowy scene outside my window at this moment. This is a good day to think tropical thoughts….

From my journal:

“Feeling wonky, as is sometimes the case on arrival day as I had to be up at 4 am and of course I didn’t have the best sleep.  The flight went quite quickly: got some work done and watched Argo.  Cancun was a zoo!  Wasn’t on Isla until 1:15 ( I think Donna said) and that was with no waiting for the ferry.  Just long enough to for me to buy everybody a beer for the ferry ride over.”

I get such a kick out of the ferry ride to Isla that this year, I crossed an extra couple of times, just to savour the trip more often.

We knew that Jill from Casa el Pio would be waiting for us, so we quickly pulled out bags over and then headed right out again to meet Sister #2 and Miquel for lunch before they headed in the direction of Punta Sur to their little beach place.  With an easy consensus, the meeting place was Bally Hoo for our traditional first lunch of fish and chips and inaugural island cervezas.

Sister #2  had coconut shrimp.

Sister #3: fish tacos.

And I, fish and a fantastic little salad.  Bally Hoo is perched on stilts right in the water, adjacent to the docks where the sport fisherman tie up their boats and clean their catch.  Perhaps this is why their fish is the freshest I have ever tasted, literally sparkling in your mouth.

My first view of “fisherman’s” beach from Bally Hoo.  Ah Isla, I have returned…..

We stopped in at the grocery store on the way home to pick up some supplies for the room: milk for my morning coffee, yoghurt for breakfast, more cervezas for any time of day and a Chilean Merlot that I had never sampled before.  It was so good, that the entourage of vinto tinto drinkers that accompanied me, stocked up too and for a while, the grocery store was sold out.

Casa el Pio would be home for the first half of my stay.

I love the crisp white and blue of the casa.  It reminds me of the Greek islands.

As my roommate settled in, I had my first walk around the seawall

and then to take in the lengthening shadows of the palms by the naval base.

Dinner that night was at Brisa Mexicana so we could watch the Oscars.

Breaded fish.

Seafood pasta.

I saw that they had pork chops on their surf and turf menu and they were kind enough to accommodate my request for them.  But who was I kidding?  They were tasty enough, but could not come close to Fredy’s 2 bone pork chop which I was craving.  I took half home for a next day sandwich.  Casa el Pio has a little fridge for left overs, that is also stocked with welcome cervesas and a shot of tequila!  They generously provide the coffee and filters for a great cup of joe, too.

But not surprizingly, we didn’t last long.  Fairly soon after the best supporting awards, we decided to head back to our cozy beds.  I thought that we might possibly be able to watch a live stream of the rest of the award show, but it really did not matter.  We were tired, but more than that: we were anxious for sleep so that we could wake up to our full first day on the island.

Kath’s quote: “There is poetry in a pork chop to a hungry man (person).”-  Philip Gibbs

Love-that is all.