I had reserved this book at the library years ago only to find that it had been lost in the circulation system.  I kept holding out hope that it would one day surface and so I did not cancel my reservation for a year or so.  After which, I conceded that it was unlikely that I would ever get to read it.  Then one day near the end of my time on Isla, I was in the lobby of our little villa (3 suites) and I spied it on the shelves of books that other guests have read and left behind instead of lugging home.  I have poured over every word because I have this gift of being transported to anywhere I am reading about (I have to be very careful with my selection of reading material).

The story is so intriguing to me as it is the story of a couple who decide to abandon their hectic life in America and opt instead for the laid back lifestyle of a little fishing village by the name of Puerto Moreles.  The book was published in 2004 and her memoirs of the building of their Mexican home went back as far as 1985.  I am sure life in the Yucatan was different then.  Very different.

This is one of the many reasons why we love the island of Isla Mujeres so much, because it feels as if it grew less quickly than Cancun and Playa de Carmen.  To my delight, Jeanine and her husband loved the island too and had this to say (p 137):

At that time, twenty years ago, the travel agent hadn’t heard of Cancun nor the nearby island of Isla Mujeres, and Paul had to convince her to get out a Mexico map so he could show her the location.  A month later we were on the a Mexicana flight, stopping only at the Cancun airport to catch a cab, then onto Isla Mujeres by boat, known only as the people’s ferry.

We fell in love with Isla.  Adored North Beach with the shallow, turquoise ocean bumping up onto a white sand beach that stetched seemingly for miles (standard fare for the Mexican Caribbean we were soon to find out) and especially loved Maria’s, a small resort with French restaurant serving excellent cuisine.  Maria had only five rooms to rent, bungalows fit for a tropical highway paradise, with palapa roofs, and a bountiful exterior garden brimming with hibiscus, crotons, and areca palms.  A narrow cement walkway, etched with geckos and tropical flowers, wound its way down to two prized bungalows, close enough to the beach to hear the waves lapping at the shore at night.  Although we’d started out in the less desirable rooms closer to the restaurant, we stayed long enough to nab one of the sought-after bungalows below.  We spent long hour’s on Maria’s lonesome beach, sharing the ocean with her ancient loggerhead sea turtles that swam in the ocean by day and by dusk returned to a funky zapote cage that straddled the sand at the water’s edge.  We hunkered down in Mexican style Adriondack chairs, sun-bathed, talked, napped and dreamed, and I think it was right then and there on Maria’s beach, that we decided somehow we would escape northern winters and city life and life in Mexico.

I “get” Jeannine and so would my siblings and friends who are in love with Isla as well.  By reading this book though, I see that it is not specifically Isla that must have smitten us but the experiences of this laid back time that Isla still has managed to retain (p 7).

Coco palms were planted in a line all the way up the way down the narrow two lane road.  Mangrove swamps with shallow brown water bumped up to the roadway, a few ducks in attendance.  Lazy dragonflies hovered aimlessly at the waters edge.  No cars passed us, only an ancient bike ambled by a young driver balancing a pot of tortillas on the handle bars.

At el centro my first impression was that of a rustic, unpolished little pueblo with a few shops.  The town square, known as el zocalo in Spanish, lacked foliage, either by design or lack of interest, except for a large almendon, or almond tree, dead centre and a couple of scruffy pinones or pines.  A basketball court, though off to the side, predominated, its backboards lacking hoops and nets.  Several concrete park benches donated by the town fathers lined the pathways.  One or two of the benches needed repair….

…The handful of locals working that day nodded to us in passing, exchanging smiles and greetings.  Friendly.  No doubt about it, the place was authentic.  No gringos, save us.  We eavesdropped on conversations, thankful they were in Spanish.  Could this be the place we’d been searching for? It had just the right amount of funk.

Giddy, we decided to ground ourselves with a bite to eat at one of the local restaurants before finding Alejandro’s house.  We chose one right on the beach with a large thatched palapa roof .  The waiter dressed all in white, meandered over with menus and asked quietly if we would like something to drink.

“Let’s drink to our good luck,” Paul said. Then he ordered two margaritas….

After a Yucateca style lunch featuring the local cuisine-fresh camarones with garlic for me and pibil chicken, a Mayan specialty with the fowl wrapped in banana leaves for Paul, and zesty lime soup-we sat for a moment on the outdoor terrace and took everything in.  From the tiburonera fishing boats docked nearby to the rustic, neglected beach to the calm that emanated everywhere, this was certainly Mexico.

(page 15)

At night we walked into town along the dark jungle road, slowly becoming accustomed to finding our way without the aid of a flashlight, guided only by the rays of the moon.  In Puerto Moreles we were getting used to the streets, the people, the tempo of life.  We knew when to find the bank open; what day the vegetable vendor set up his stand; what time we could find the sporadic baker selling bread.

We noticed the friendliness of everyone from children playing in the street to taxi drivers to shopkeepers.  We started to become accustomed to the polite nods or the occasional “buenas tardes” from people we didn’t even know.  We were fitting in.

The story is primarily about the years that it took to muddle through all the illogical red tape of securing land in Mexico and the agonizing process of building their precious Casa Maya right on the beach, devastating hurricanes and all.  This too, we know is authentic.

Did they live happily ever after, in their little Casa? Apparently not. I was watching House International recently, which is one of my HGTV addictions and a couple from Edmonton made the adventurous decision to purchase an abandoned villa that was a shell its former self, to restore it to previous grandeur.  The property? Casa Maya.

Kath’s quote: Mi casa es su casa.”

Love-that is all.

As Sister #3 mentioned earlier, tortillas are made both from corn and white flour, depending upon whether corn or wheat is the most prevalent crop in the region.  I have never attempted to make my own tortillas and watched eagerly for tips at The Little Mexican Cooking School, in case I got adventurous back home.  Sister #3 who is more at home with Mexican cooking even owns her own tortilla press.  But she does find the process far more complicated than it looks.  Kind of like watching a figure skater and wondering how they make something so difficult, appear so effortless.

Wherever we dine on Isla Mujeres, stacks of these are delivered to the table to accompany almost every dish.  A trip to the tortilla maker equates to a visit to the baker in Europe or (I am ashamed to say) the bakery department of the grocery store in North America. On this day at The Little Mexican Cooking School,  in Puerto Moreles we made corn tortillas and the ingredients are simple: 4 cups of corn flour and 2 1/2 cups of water.  But, as uncomplicated as the ingredients are, the procedure is an art form.  Mix the corn flour and water, little by little and knead to form a “masa”.  If it’s too dry add a little more water, if too wet, add a little more flour.  Then pinch off a piece of masa and roll it into a golf ball sized sphere.

Set the ball onto the tortilla press between 2 pieces of plastic. Press the masa, flip and press again for uniform thickness.  Transfer to a hot, dry skillet.  Cook for about 30 seconds on one side, gently turn and cook for about 60 seconds on the 2nd side, turn back to the 1st side for another 30 seconds.  Remove and keep warm.

Chef Christrobal demonstrated this and two other ways to form the tortilla.

By hand, where the masa is constantly passed back and forth between the palms and flipped and pressed with each motion.  The hand motion was fluid and mesmerizing and we could all see that Chef Christrobal had been proficient at the process for a very long time.

The third way was between two pieces of plastic on a hard surface where the masa was constantly pressed and pounded (gently) into shape.  Chef Christrobal also sent us home with these tips:

Making tortillas is not difficult, but the right portion of wet and dry is key.  The standard ratio is: 2 cups of corn flour to about 1 1/4 to 1 1/3 cups of water.  The tortilla dough can be worked with your hands without suffering.  It needs to be moist enough to stick together in a ball, but not so moist as to stick to the press like glue.

When making tortillas, the masa can dry out quickly.  Keep it covered with a damp cloth while you are working.

The use of a heavy gauge pan or griddle is important.  You are cooking at a high heat on a dry surface, and a lighter weight utensil can warp.  If you don’t have a comal, a heavy electric frying pan or cast iron skillet both work well.

Brown spots on your tortillas are good-an indication that they are handmade.

Put your tortilla in a breathable container, wrapped in a kitchen towel to keep warm and tender.  Corn tortillas can also be made 2 hours in advance, wrapped and reheated.  Reheat them in a 350 degree oven for about 12 minutes or in a microwave for 1-2 minutes.

Kath’s quote: “You don’t have to cook fancy or complicated masterpieces – just good food from fresh ingredients.”-Julia Child

Love-that is all.

This is the long-promised recounting of our culinary adventure while vacationing on Isla Mujeres.  Puerto Moreles is a ferry trip and then a taxi ride away and even though it is hard to budge us from our precious Isla once we arrive, the promise of a new adventure involving food and beverages, was hard to resist.  This first installment is written by Sister #3.

When you think of enjoying a nice cold one in Mexico it is likely a cold Corona or a salty lime margarita come to mind?.  Mexico is a hot country and it is important to stay hydrated, and liquor, while refreshing, is not the answer.  If you are looking for a delicious alcohol free beverage while south of the boarder, there is a plethora to choose from.  

I never drink pop at home but I must confess I’m a bit addicted to Mexican soda.  Sure you can find the standard cola, lemon-lime and orange flavours but you will also be treated to some very unique taste sensations.  Jurritos is a popular brand and I am pleased to say they are now readily available for purchase at Latin markets around our fair city. Mango, guava, pineapple, watermelon are all fruit flavours that I can’t believe no one in North America is producing in soda.  They also make tamarind, which is a lovely sour taste, and one called Jamaica, which I have not tried, made from hibiscus stamen. I have eaten hibiscus and would say it is a bit perfumy for my taste.  My very favorite flavor is Manzana, which means apple, and it is harder to find. Lift, a coca-cola made version, is everywhere in Mexico but I love Sidral Mundet, which, like the Jurritos, comes in a glass bottle with a pop top. 

On our last visit to Mexico, my sister Kathryne and a friend and I took a day trip to experience The Little Mexican Cooking School in Puerto Morelos.  Besides learning about the food of Mexico we had the opportunity to try some of their homemade “soft’ drinks. 

We started our morning with a chocolate making demo and then this delectable hand made chocolate was used as the base of our first beverage. By adding water and ice our cinnamon, vanilla, sugar, and cacao seeds, AKA artesian chocolate, we had a light and refreshing, and might I add, caffeinated beverage.

Our next break featured a frosty jar of melon agua fresca, which translates to fresh water.  To make agua fresca fruit is pureed and then strained through cheese cloth.  Water, lime juice are added and voila!  Another kind of fresh water was our treat at the next break.  Horchata is made by adding water to ground rice, cinnamon, sugar and a little lime zest. The mixture is strained and the flavourful rice milk is the result. 

We ended our day with a cold corona, followed by a glass of sangria and a shot of really good tequila with our main meal. OK old habits are hard to break, but it was great to have the chance to enjoy other traditional Mexican beverages that day.

Kath’s quote: “The correct order of beverages is starting with the most temperate and ending with the most heady.” –Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

Love-that is all.