Food Musings

A Winnipeg blog about the joy of preparing food for loved ones and the shared joy that travel & dining brings to life.

Isla Mujeres 2022- Getting into Isla’s Rhythm

May9

We enjoyed the quiet of the morning, and then it was a day full of company!

Kelly and Moby were walking to town for a painting class but stopped by for a lovely catch up chat.

Later, friends Jan and Bruce joined us for Happy Hour. Unfortunately it was too windy in the back of our place by the water and too noisy with the traffic of the road so we made it a quick one and took roadies to watch the sunset and walk to dinner.

We never tire of watching the sun lower in the sky from Medina.

We met J and B on the island and have been close ever since. I mentioned that it was a windy day, well I had to settle for this pic of Bruce in mid-sentence because in all the others, Jan’s hair was completely blown off of her face. We girls stick together about those kind of things you know.

I wasn’t very impressed with pics of D and I either but decided on this one with only half of my hair blown off of my forehead.

The setting sun accompanied us all the way to our dinner destination. Green Verde (open the link to see pics and details about our great dinner).

Kath’s quote:

“Ponder well on this point: the pleasant hours of our life are all connected by a more or less tangible link, with some memory of the table.”-Charles Pierre Monselet

Love-that is all.

Isla Mujeres 2022-Day 2 Surprising Hortencia

May5

Had a wonderful sleep and then we were up with the sun for coffee and pictures.

I love this quiet time on the island. The sun’s reflection on the water invites me to reflect on the blessings the island offers us.

This is our typical island breakfast. Even though we eat sugar and fat free yoghurt when we are home, we treat ourselves to creamy mango youghurt when in Mexico. Somehow the little bananas are sweeter there than in central Canada. I bring Almond Special Kay from home to top the concoction.

Next on the aggenda, we walk into Centro for cilantro and a couple of things forgotten while at Chedrui.

There are a couple of routes into Centro. We often choose the malecon for the shade and cooler breeze off the water.

We just had to scope out the new food offerings that had vacated the zoccolo and moved closer to the malecon.

I hailed a cab home and D stayed and reacquainted himself with Centro, looking intently for the spot where we could buy sour dough bread for sandwiches at home. I mistakenly thought we were looking for a bakery, whereas we were searching for a deli.

When D arrived home he ate the leftovers of the Rueben from Neal’s from the night before. I tucked into a cheese, cucumber, lime mayo and truffle sea salt sandwich. Delish.

We spent a lazy afternoon reading in the hammock and beachcombing.

The beautiful tree that acts like an umbrella over the front terrace at Luna D’Miel.

Over the years the years, we have met so many wonderful neighbours at Luna d’Miel-Gloria and Hue from Saskatoon, Iowa friends Kelly and Peggy, Jan and Michelle from PEI and Susan and Bruce from…. approximately 1 km awat from us at home, in the same neighbourhood we live in Winnipeg!

This year was no exception-Lorraine and her Husband (his name escapes me at the moment) reside in Austin, Texas and were there for a family wedding. Very little chance we will see them on the island again any time soon because their travel agenda is to never see any place twice, unlike D and I who love the familiar and the adventure of exploring a new place. I tried to do a Facebook search on our new Texan friends to no avail. Drat-they were lovely.

We walked to the other side of the airport strip and then took our time along Medina as the sun was setting. When I recount being able to walk everywhere, it is with an explanation mark and I sigh of relief. I have been waiting to have me second knee replaced, but Covid has prolonged the wait list. I consulted with my surgeon and he thought that a shot of cortisone would do the trick and he was right! I had the shot the Friday before we left and I felt like a spring chicken on the island. I am sure the warm sun and the vitamin D did wonders too. I am my best self on Isla.

When time was dwindling before our dinner reservation, we did hail a cab for the last leg of the journey to a new and fabulous restaurant-Rinconcito Kahlo (see this link for all the detail).

D and I remembered that we were just down the street from our Mexican family-Hortencias! Although the house looked dark, we timidly knocked on the door. Suddenly Mary and Sara burst through the entry way, laughing and crying and hugging and kissing us! After a couple of minutes Hortencia and Marcello emerged bleary-eyed. We realized that we had called too late for the matriarch and patiarch of the family. But they embraced us the same way.

Our entertainment for the rest of the evening were Naftali and Irma’s boys, especially Mateo was so happy to have an audience. He danced and did acrobatic tricks with his dinosaur. All the boys joined us when Mary and her husband borrowed Marcello’s truck to drive us home. It was a wonderful gathering with promises of other times that we could be together.

We realized that it wasn’t the sparkling turquoise water, the ice cold cervesas or the delicious fresh food that we had missed the 2 years as we waited to return to the island-it was these precious people!

Kath’s quote: “When old friends reconnect, there is a refreshing newness, after great memories wash over you, the stage is set for so many more.”-Tom Althouse

Isla Mujeres 2022, Day 1-Late Arrival & Full First Day

April29
Ferry Lighthouse

You may know that we live in Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada where as I write this, we are still surrounded by snow. It has been an unusually cold, snowy winter but our original plans were to bi-pass the end of winter by spending March on Isla Mujeres. As we missed visiting in 2021 due to Covid, we were particularly anxious to get to the island. As (bad) luck would have it, we spent a very frustrating day and overnight in Calgary due to a equipment malfunction on an Air Canada flight. But now that the day is months behind us and we had such a long and amazing time on the island, the frustration has been forgotten.

We actually had a great sleep in Calgary as the night before in Winnipeg I was too excited to sleep. We caught a reasonably timed shuttle to the airport and then enjoyed movies, my book and snacks on board. We were delighted by the ease of which we made it through Cancun airport. D had befriended a lovely woman on the flight. She was traveling alone and was taking a bus to meet up with her son in Playa Del Carman. So we stuck around an extra while to ensure that she was able to make contact with her son.

Our room from inside looking out

When we finally arrived at the ferry dock, we found that we had just missed the 7 pm one and that they only run once an hour at that time of season/day of the week/time of day. As we were famished, D ordered tortas from the ferry restaurant. Unfortunately, they took so long to arrive, we ended up gobbling them down as our ferry arrived. Our lovely friends J and B met us at the terminal for hugs and kisses. We hopped into a cab, and had a nightcap under the stars.

As always on the island, we were so excited to finally be there, that we were awake before the sun and had enough time to make our coffee before our considerable wait for its rising.

Our first task that morning was walking to Chedrui with our provision list for breakfasts, lunches and snacks. I was amazed when we were able to gather beer, bread, peanut butter, limes, mangoes, bananas, mosquito spray, yoghurt, butter, eggs, ham, manchego cheese, cucumber, tomatoes, lime mayonaise, a baseball hat for D and two bottles of Chilean Merlot for $65 CDN. Just yesterday I bought fruit in Winnipeg to make a fruit platter for an event and that cost me $65!

One of the reasons we have stayed at Luna d’ Miel over the years is for the beachcombing. This photo is from our place to the south. Just to the right edge of the image is what I lovingly refer to as “our beach”. Even though there is a coral ridge right in front of us, there is a break in the coral to the south. Unfortunately the beach is not suitable for swimming but you can stand ankle deep in the waves and sift through gravel patches to find enough sea glass to carry home without paying a fortune in extra baggage costs. This is typically my past time while D is walking his Isla circuit or has his nose in a book. On this day and subsequent days, he joined me. The waves were strong and knocked sizeable rocks against our ankles. I was happy for his company in case I was bowled over by the surf.

The Cuban castaway boat that landed on Isla the month prior, still rested on that beach. Imagine making that voyage?

After lunch, I did something very unusual for me. I nestled into a beach towel, with a cushion and had a long afternoon nap on a lounge chair. I don’t normally indulge in naps because it means, I have to start my day all over again and sure enough I needed a coffee and a shower.

Another nice thing about our favourite room at Luna d’Miel is the separate living/dining room. The light is beautiful and I always try to open the curtains to let the glorious light fill the room.

I let my hair dry in the warm breeze

and by then it was almost time to crack our first bottle of vino tinto.

As the sun lowers in the west the shade from the buildings creates a shady/cooler place and we linger for as long as we can to enjoy it.

There was a time when we first started staying at Luna d’Miel that we could watch an unobstructed sunset from the communal patio in from of the suites. But the brush on the airport strip has grown high enough that we now have to walk a couple of buildings to the north, to get a better vantage.

We waited for a cab (which are fairly plentiful and unoccupied at that time of day) and made the pleasurable ride to Isla 33 ahead of our dinner reservation.

We walked the cliffs across the street from the condo complex. My first trip to the island , we stayed near Punta Sur and I have wanted since then to explore this neighborhood a little more.

Neal’s Irish Pub (click the link for all the details) was a lesson in our eyes being bigger than our stomachs. The cab ride “home” was a pleasure with the breeze off the water filling our senses. A lovely way to start our wonderful time on the island.

Kath’s Quote: “Vacation calories don’t count. Right?” – Unknown

The heart fairy struck the first time that morning.

Love-that is all.

La Frieda en Rosa-Isla Mujeres 2022 by Sister #3

April26

Every once in a while a restaurant will open in Isla Mujeres and create a splash. There have been a number of those since my last visit to the island in 2020. While sadly some restaurants didn’t make it through the Covid years, it’s awesome and surprising that some new gems have appeared. 

One of the new places that is the talk of the town is Riconcito Kahlo. And recently the spin off version, La Frieda en Rosa located in Centro. 

Walking down Matomoros, half way between Juárez and Medina you can’t miss the vibrant pinks radiating from La Frida en Rosa.

Mostly a pick up window with a few small tables. As the name suggests the colour palette is all pink, bright pink and so cheerful. 

These two restaurants honour Freda Kahlo, a Mexican icon whose artistry is worshipped to this day.

Much like the namesake her restaurants honour, owner Criss Medina carries herself with confidence and knows her place in the world. And her place is Isla Mujeres. She grew up around the corner from her newly opened Centro location. 

Criss started us out with a yummy torta, that is not yet found on the menu, which continues to be a work in progress. The combination of ham, salami, chicken, lettuce, tomato, avocado, and garlic dressing, which is amazing, is served on crunchy bread. 

Next came the Quesabirrias, a dish feature on the menus of both locations. This is a traditional dish from northern Mexico, created in Tijuana and typically made with goat, it’s a cross between a taco and a quesadilla. 

The taco shells are stuffed with seasoned pulled beef and cheese, and all made crunchy from being cooked on a flat top.  What makes this dish unique is the “consommé” a rich beef au jus to which you can add onion, cilantro and lime and dip your quesabirrias. 

Criss shared that restaurants are a family affair. He two sons, and two daughters all contributing in their own way. “I do this for them” she says. 

Because the menu is still developing. Be sure to look at the signs taped to the service counter for other offerings. These include waffles, hotcakes, French toast, crepes (she calls them rolly cakes), croissants, shrimp on a bun, breaded chicken stuffed with cheese, and as Criss says “-and of course a clili dog”. 

Kath’s quote: “One of the delights of life is eating with friends, second to that is talking about eating. And, for an unsurpassed double whammy, there is talking about eating while you are eating with friends.”
Laurie Colwin

Love-that is all.

Sabores by Posada del Mar- Isla Mujeres 2022

April22

I cant say enough good things about our lunch at the Posada del Mare Beach Club. For 250 pesos for a day pass, you have access to chairs, umbrellas, pool and the washrooms. Your pesos go towards your food and drinks.

We arrived in the early morning, that is about 10 am ish. We like to be in sun early in the day when the rays are indirect and the air is still relatively cool. It was a perfect time to commence the day as the pool was virtually deserted and we had our pic of chairs and umbrella.

The only people who beat us to the pool edge was this young family. As parents, they had the day all figured out. They took turns entertaining the kids in the pool and when it was time for naps, a mother or mother-in-law arrived to take them back to their cool hotel room for their naps, thereby given the parents, some much needed adult only time.

One of the first items on our agenda was the opportunity for D to meet Romi, an Isla Icon. I had met him years before when I first became acquainted with Islaholics that I have known now for almost 2 decades.

We were told that we could sit at the shady bar to order drinks or from the bar, with our Beach Club day pass.

We preferred to have our double pina cooladas (I call them adult milkshakes) in non-breakable glasses so that we didn’t have to get out of the pool.

When lunch time arrived we knew that we should probably get out of the sun and sit at one of the gorgeous tables in the bar. But since it was next to our last day on the island, we stayed put under a palapa.

Ceviche has long been a favourite of mine. The first time I tasted it was my very first visit to Isla in 2005. We were at Picus and I was hooked! I like Mixto Ceviche best with some conch and octopus but this concoction with shrimp was perfecto!

I am sure you realize that you consume a lot of tortilla chips when you are on the island. Not all chips are the same. I like mine best when they have been freshly fried in new oil and all the grease has been shaken off of them. These were spot on!

D had a yen for chicken fajitas. He thought these were beautifully seasoned and chock full of fresh fixings like pico de gallo and quacamole.

We visited near the end of our time on the island and wished we had eaten there more often, especially at sunset, because their view is unspoiled by the various beach clubs that have gobbled up the shoreline and obstructed the sight lines of the water (think Coco’s across from Jax).

Actually I think their property should be supported because of their philosophy to keep the beach open to locals and tourists alike. Posada owners have been committed to this philosophy for 70 years. Way to go!

We had a long visit with our new friend Joch of the property. He explained that Posada del Mare started as two apartments available for rent and now, 70 years later, they have a number of hotel rooms as well as Restaurante Penquino’s, the Sports/Snack Bar called Ruta 15, the pool area and Romi’s Bar. So everything is now under the umbrella of Sabores Posada del Mar.

Yes, if we had it all to do over again, we may have stayed right in the heart of the action at the hotel and spent our days around the pool and across the street walking the beach. But there is next year, there is always next year…

Kath’s quote: “Too much of a good thing can be wonderful.”Mae West

Love-that is all.

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