I think I can honestly say that I have never been as excited to try a new restaurant in Isla Mujeres as I was to try Yaakun. I am what you might call a food groupie. Having received formal culinary training myself, I truly appreciate the art of cooking. It takes a lot of discipline to hone your skills over years of learning and practicing. I went to college a very long time ago. I learned the basic skills I needed to cook in the restaurant industry. But I have learned so much more about food through my travels, research, and following the careers of other chefs. I take a special interest in the food of the Yucatan region, as it has a huge influence on the culinary scene in Quinta Roo, the state in which you find Isla Mujeres. A few years ago I was in Merida in the state on Yucatan where I tried lots of dishes for the first time. So imagine my surprise to learn that the menu of Yaakun, recently opened right here on the island, was created by award winning Merida Chef Obed Reyes. I’ve seen him on the Netflix show Taco Chronicles (season 2 episode 2 if you’re interested).  He was talking about cochinta pibil, a dish I’ve enjoyed for years and often make at home. Looking at the menu he developed for Yaakun, it is clearly Yucatan. While it is down to earth, it is also immensely beautifully presented. Chef Reyes still lives and works in Merida, his restaurant there is called Holoch if you ever get a chance to visit, he has trained the team here to execute his vision to a tee. He was in town for the grand opening and I missed meeting him by one day. Maybe another time. Anyway, enough gushing. Let me tell you about Yaakun. 

Situated on Juarez, across the street and just north of La Lomita. The building has a new facade but the footprint is the original family house of the grandmother of Nacio, one half of the restaurant’s creative team. He is married to Valerie, whose family home is just a short way down the block. Valerie pointed out some of the original features of Nacio’s family home that still remain, from the tile floor to some of the windows. She is quick to point out that all the design choices including the look of the logo, the menu, the serving vessels, are all Nacio.

She oversees the service end of the business and has brought on board a very experienced team, many of whom you will recognize as long time professional waiters. 

As you enter the restaurant you’ll be in the bar area. A place for a nice drink and melow music. Looking at the liquor selection, you’ll likely see a wide variety of bottles you’ve not seen before. These artisanal libations were my first indication that this was going to be a special experience. But more about that later. 

We started out in the dining room for lunch. A lovely space of dark wood furniture, sage green walls, and photography of Mayan subject matter. It was perfect for good conversation with my friend as we tried as many dishes as we could manage, knowing there would be incredible leftovers to enjoy the following day. 

We selected three appetizers. First was the Longaniza de Valladolid. A smoked pork sausage made from scratch in-house and flavored with achiote and fire grilled. It is dry sausage which is to be enjoyed with chiltomate tomato sauce, bean sauce, and a grilled sour orange to squeeze over top. 

Next was the Pibiuas, these crunchy little white bean and pumpkin seed cakes are halved and stuffed.  We had two with cochonita pibil topped with pickled red onion and one with lomitos, a tomato and white bean pork stew with boiled egg. It is quickly becoming a house gem. 

Our third appetizer was my favourite. Kibis is a fried beef and wheat meatball stuffed with Edam cheese. I loved the crispy edges of these flavour bombs. 

I have to admit I accidentally ordered three appetizers because I misunderstood and thought they were out of the main I wanted to try, relleno negro. Not an easy item to find on menus on the island except perhaps a few Mom and Pop places. So I was delighted when it was brought to our table. For me this was the absolute highlight of our meal. I first had it in Merida where the meat was served on a salbute with slices of egg. Here, this turkey stew is served with fresh tortillas. Spices are blackened and ground to make the sauce. In the Yaakun version a pork meatball surrounds the boiled egg. Though it looks odd, it’s absolutely incredible. 

It was a perfect afternoon. But we had yet to try one of the specialty cocktails that used those artisanal spirits I saw at the bar in the way in. Turns out there’s a bit of a secret cantina hidden in the back of the building. One of those “if you know, you know” things. We happened to be in time for an afternoon set with island musicians we have know for years.

So we enjoyed our cocktails as we were served small “botanas”, little bowls of simple Mexican tapas to complement your cocktail. 

My friend ordered a Palo Monte. A pineapple, passion fruit drink with charanda tequila and gifiard banana liqueur, kalani coconut rum liqueur, and cinnamon. Like dessert in a glass. 

I selected the namesake Yaakun. A show stopper of a drink in both presentation and taste. Pineapple and mango with Sokol, a liquor which is similar to tequila and mescal, it comes from Chihuahua and has a smooth smoky flavour. It was unique and refreshing. It is presented in a ceramic glass featuring the Mayan Jaguar mask. I will absolutely be back for a cocktail in the cantina. Rumour has it you can catch a salsa band later in the evening in the cantina space. 

You may be wondering what Yaakun means. Well fittingly, it’s the Mayan word for love. And you can feel the love that went into the creation of every aspect of this place. The deep respect for the history of the home itself, honouring the cuisine of the region, carrying on the tradition of a back room cantina, and the love of Valerie and Nacio’s big island family. 

Kath’s quote: “Family is not an important thing. It’s everything.” –Michael J. Fox

Love never fails.

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