Browsing: Isla Mujeres

Isla Mujeres 2024 Restaurant Features-Marina Bartolome

March12

One of the sweetest moments is when I meet a person that I have known on Facebook (often for years), in real life. This has occurred many times recently and did so again last evening. Isleno Valerie Rifig and I met on line in the years before Covid. D and I became obsessed with a little taco place called 1000 Tacos. I absolutely gushed about the place. http://foodmusings.ca/isla-mujeres/1000-tacos-our-new-home-isla-mujeres-2020/ Valerie was one of the owners, but couldn’t meet me at the restaurant because she had just had a baby. Unfortunately the taqueria did not survive the Covid years. But Valerie and I still remained FB friends. What a lovely surprise occurred when I was gaga over a shrimp dish at Marina Bartolome to find that Valerie’s family owns the marina, hotel and restaurant. We tried on many occasions to meet IRL and finally achieved this, last evening.

We started with that shrimp dish. Whole shrimp are skewed from stem to stern including the head and tail. This creates and outstanding presentation but also a unique manner to enjoy every part of the crustacean. The shells soften in the cooking process and many Islenos claim that the head is the most flavourful part of the treat. The skewers were placed on a bed of grilled romaine which I completely finished because of its own nutty taste enhanced by the amazing sauce from the shrimp. I am becoming more and more familiar with sauces from outside the Yucatan Peninsula and Zarandeado is one of those complex sauces thrilling me right now.

Every year that I spend on the island, I come home with a new favourite dish or recipe. Years ago it was ceviche, Fredy’s porkchop, chilies relleno, etc. More recently it has been grilled octopus, octopus carpaccio or shrimp tostados. This year it is Aguachiles. The dish is made of shrimp, submerged in liquid seasoned with chiltepin peppers, lime juice, salt, slices of cucumber and slices of red onion. This raw seafood dish comes from the north west region of Mexico, and is normally prepared in a molcajete. Marina Bartalome’s were divine!

I only eat octopus on Isla Mujeres. Marina Bartolome’s recipe is an award winning one, marinated in red chilli adobo and dried chilies producing a dish so tender and packed with complex flavours! The grilled carrots and potatoes with rosemary balanced the exquisite tastes.

When chatting with Valerie about their recipes, I came to understand that their clever ingredient twists are what make the dishes memorable. Case in point, the Pacifico Tuna Tostado was uniquely crowned with ribbons of fried leaks and finished with a swirl of sesame oil, producing a composite of ocean and Asian flavours. It too was a stellar dish.

But I was still craving those wonderful tacos buried deep in my food memories. Luckily, in one corner of the menu, those tacos still shine! We indulged in the Crispy Shrimp and Octopus ones, remembering that cheese was the unique ingredient in the 1000 taco recipes. I loved that they produced a cheese wafer in those days that added a snap and crunch to the taco. The cheese is still there, but melted to fuse the multiple ingredients. Still delicious.

We ended the meal of scrumptiousness with a Passionfruit Mango cake. Light cake layers were interlaced with tropical fruit flavours and garnished with silky mango strips. Oh my goodness, what a amazing meal!

It is no wonder that the fish tasted at its maximum freshness. We learned that Valerie’s husband had just arrived back to the dock with their catch.

I was also surprised to hear that there is no chef heading up the kitchen but an incredibly hard working staff of seafood lovers.

There are pictures that adorn the inside restaurant walls. They tell the story of the many generations of Valerie’s family who were amongst the original Islenos.

If you are currently on the island, you must visit before you leave. Their hours of operation and menus can be viewed on the Mapchick app.

Kath’s quote: “There’s always more space for more seafood, just as there’s always room for more love in life.” -unknown

Love never fails.

Isla Mujeres 2024 Restaurant – Queen Macabi

March10

Well readers, we are taking you on another sleuthing mission. This time to find Queen Macabi Restaurant. We hopped in a cab and showed our driver where we were going on the mapchicks app. He barely glanced at the map but fixated on the fact that we mentioned Macabi, part of the name of the restaurant. He was determined to drop us off at Macabi St. We obediently got out of the taxi and consulted GBS.

Even when we were almost on top of the location, we didn’t know it, until we spotted a sign at the bottom of a staircase.

This is the address of the restaurant.
This is the bakery that is on the main floor.
Follow the Queen Macabi sign (above) and then take this staircase to the roof.

The second way you can find the restaurant is by consulting Jose of Cultural Cruisers. He accompanied one of his many groups there, the same afternoon we visited.

We learned a little bit about the business. It had been open about a year and a half. As far as we could determine, Abi the female owner, also operated a second restaurant and had put her son in charge of the Queen Macabi location.

They lovingly prepared us two seafood platters. One had salad, two whole fried fish and fish & shrimp empanadas.

The other platter boasted arrachera, shrimp ceviche, beans, rice, guacamole and my new favourite shrimp aquachiles.

The fried fish obtained that lovely crispy skin, and tender, flaky inside. The empanadas were perfectly prepared and chock fill. The vegetable garnish on the platter meant we got our vegetables for the day.

The arrachera was so flavourful and tender. It was a generous portion and enough for 4 of us to eat our fair share. I enjoyed it with the little bowl of rice which accompanied. The newbies we took with us, loved the ceviche. It was their first time tasting the dish and they are now officially hooked. My favourite was the shrimp aquachiles. I have always been a lover of the fresh taste of cucumber and it is a wonderful way to highlight marinated shrimp.

Chocolate coins came with la quinta.

The decor is pleasant and simple and the breeze on the roof was refreshing. The staff were accommodating and attentive. Abi’s son was especially grateful for our visit. As soon as you find the place once, the tasty food will have you coming back for more. Check out the mapchicks app for menus and hours of operation.

Kath’s quote: “Son’s are the anchors of a mother’s life”.-Sophocles

Love never fails.

Isla Mujeres 2024 Restaurant Features-Xaman

March9

If you are looking to dive deeper into Mexican culture, may I suggest a visit to Xaman (pronounced Sha-man) Restaurant Bar. Located above Carribean Brisas on Perimetral Oriente just south of Mango Cafe, this unique establishment opened in February 2023. 

Even before you ascend the stairs you can feel you are about to experience a tribute to Mayan culture. The atmosphere is decidedly indigenous, with beautiful murals and art pieces throughout. There is even a shaman in residence who often visits the restaurant as well as leading ceremony at Punta Sur. 

Over the last number of years I have been on a personal quest to better understand my own indigenous roots and chatting with owners Guillermozo and Yadi, I was surprised by the overwhelming similarities of our cultures. Like the Cree and Ojibwe nations of Canada, from which my ancestors descend, the Mayans build sacred fires, hold sweat lodges, and smudge as part of their ceremonies.  Even the Mayan beading looks very similar to the Metis beading we are learning at home.

Guillermo, who moved to Isla from Mexico City in 2015, met Yadi, who grew up in Texas but is actually a member of a large Isla family, and the two have been inseparable ever since. They both shared a vision of opening a restaurant that would bring something different to the people who visit Isla Mujeres, introducing them to a wider variety of Mexican cuisine. They dreamed of helping people explore the culture more deeply. Their menu is a celebration of the ingredients native to the Yucatan and Quintana Roo. So I was very excited to meet them and experience Xaman with their guidance. 

We started with amazing cocktails. They were absolute works of art.  You can tell that as much time and effort has gone into creating and preparing them as has gone into the food. We had a Margarita pachita made with tequila, pineapple juice, muddled cilantro and Serrano chili with a salted rim. The first sip was spicy and potent but as my taste buds adjusted it was refreshing and delicious. We also tried the Dioses del Mar, meaning the gods of the sea. What a masterpiece! Tequila and blue curaçao are mixed with coconut cream and lime and served in a coconut rimmed glass. It’s the most unique cocktail I have experienced. Both cocktails were garnished with dehydrated citrus and fresh rosemary. 

The food menu has something for everyone but will be especially pleasing to vegans as it has a ton of creative plant based options. They even make vegan chorizo. 

There are also plenty of dishes to please the adventurous eater. We tried the grasshoppers from Chiapas, roasted with chilli and plenty of lime.

My sister, the French fry lover ordered papas Fuego Azteca and we both agreed they were the best fries we’ve have on the island. After we polished off the bowl we were curious about the seasoning that set them apart from other fries, only to discover they were seasoned with paprika and sel de gusano, also known as worm salt. 

Not to worry if bugs aren’t your thing there are a ton of other ingredients that you may not experience elsewhere on the island that are not so scary. Many of the ingredients are pre-Hispanic and have been eaten by the indigenous people for centuries. 

They also have a nice selection of familiar dishes such as nachos, quesadillas, tacos, tamales, breaded chicken, shrimp and mole. 

We made most of our selections from the appetizer section. The Trio Xamanico featured guacamole, Dzikilpak and la Ofrenda. Dzikilpak is hummus like dip made from roasted pumpkin seeds. La Ofrenda, meaning the offering, is seasoned corn ribs that have been charred over fire. 

Next was Pachamama, potato bombs stuffed with chorizo. They were supper flavourful. Crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside with just the right spice level. 

On to the Chile Ixkatiic, a yellow chilli pepper, grown in Yucatan, stuffed with cheese, mushrooms and onions and wrapped in momo leaf. Served on a creamy ixkatiic sauce with chunks of pineapple. 

All of the appetizers we tried are available in vegan versions. 

We decided to share a main and selected the Pescado en salsa guyaba, fresh fish in a guava sauce served with rice and fresh vegetables. It was delicate and delicious. 

I left feeling full of good food and honoured to have met two kindred spirits who share their passion for food and culture so generously. 

If you are interested in viewing the menu and hours of operation, check out the mapchik app. The best money you will ever spend.

Kath’s quote: “Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food.”― Hippocrates

Love never fails.

Isla Mujeres 2024 Restaurant Features-GreenVerde

March6

There are some readers here as well as my circle back home, that wonder why on earther I would holiday at the same place year after year for almost 20 years. Here on Isla Mujeres I have met so many people who have been coming here longer, come here more times a year and many more that stay longer than my cherished month. They get it. Don’t get me wrong, I know that it is a big world out there and I am blessed to say I have travelled to many places and hope to see many more. Isla is not a holiday for me, as strange as that sounds. It is even better. It is where I live; it is my home; it is my happy place for one month a year. You either get it or you don’t get it.

Alba the Chef

Besides the people that draw us here every year (the locals, the ex pats, the other travelers), there is the food! Some of it is excitingly new, especially this year. But equally so, is the fare we have enjoyed trip after trip. I cannot recount the times we have visited Rafael at Greenverde. He waits for us at the entrance of his well-loved restaurant, he lets us choose a favourite table and when we open the menu, we sigh in satisfaction that our much loved recipes are still there.

Since our last visit, Greenverde has expanded their crafted cocktails, created by mixologist Angel. We enjoyed favourites of a mango margarita, a classic margarita and a new concoction called a Mescal Del Sur (I am loving Mescal this visit!) The latter is complex blend of hibiscus syrup, cinnamon, mescal of course and a liqueur called Ancho Chile. To add to the smoky tastes of the creation, a sprig of rosemary is ignited as it is served at the table. Mixologist Angel has 17 years experience and both he and Rafael are proud of his expertise, as they should be.

Since D arrived after me to the island, he hadn’t yet had a feed of ceviche. Greenverde’s mix of fish and shrimp was not swimming in lime juice, but appropriately kissed with it. The sturdy chips allowed for large scoops as the bowl was enormous.

For entrees, D chose his favourite Tricolour moles: chicken in red mole, beef in yellow mole and pork in green mole. I have tried to determine what distinguishes one mole from the next, but I am having difficulty researching it (and the pool is calling me). If you know could you answer on the Facebook IM Food Page?

Newbie Karen was over the moon for her Chicken Chile Poblano. It was gooey and creamy due to the generous logs of queso panela (sometimes called canasta) that were perched on top of shredded chicken in boat made from a poblano chili. She leaves the island tomorrow but with her goes those luxurious taste memories.

I rarely eat beef, in truth because my body doesn’t really know what to do with it anymore. But on Isla because araachera/skirt steak has been tenderized in lime juice, it is far easier for me to digest. The Tampiquena is Greenverde’s take on this tradition dish. The strips of poblano peppers sauteed with corn, onion, cream and cotija cheese ( a Mexican version of my favourite Greek feta cheese) was sublime and although I should have eaten with bites of the tender steak, I could not resist and ate it all at once. That left the skirt steak to be enjoyed in its nakedness. which turned out to be a good thing because I enjoyed the individual ingredients of the marinade.

D was wise and resisted desert. I was foolish and ordered the chocolate cake! Even though I needed a brisk walk after our dinner, that cake was worth every step. It was a flourless cake so I was actually not bogged down by the starch. Each forkful was light and airy and yet deep in rich chocolate tastes as if by magic.

Karen spied the plaintains sauteed in brown sugar and butter and then flamed with smack of tequila. She brought most of it home to enjoyed with yoghurt this mornung.

D did order another artisan cocktail for desert. It started out as an Aperol Spritz but Angel cleverly added lychee essence for a whole new spin. I didn’t mind when D needed help finishing it.

Angel the Mixologist

Greenverde is on that stretch of Medina going south after the airport strip. For more specific instructions, to browse their menu or see their hours of operation, see the mapchick app, the best money you will ever spend.

Kath’s quote: “I need the sun, sand and ocean to rejuvenate my spirit, the food to enliven my body and all of the familiar places, friends and family to revitalize my soul. I go for replenishment. For a kind of love that I truly know. For a place of belonging, always.” -Grace Gealey

Love never fails.

Cafeteria Juanita La Bendicion 

March5

By Sister #3

The other day I was walking down the street in Isla Mujeres and I heard my name. I looked quickly at a fellow I didn’t recognize and said a polite “hola”. As I continued to walk, it occurred to me that I had met him before. That evening I was walking down the same street and again I heard my name. This time I stopped and went into a quaint little shop to confirm how I knew this fellow (know how when you see someone out of context?) You know that you know them, but how, from where?

Then it came to me, it was Francisco. He is the nephew of my dear friend Hortencia.

He and I first met last year when my “Mexican family” had my “actual family” over for dinner.  Marcelino, Hortencia and family are such gracious hosts and we love to be together sharing food and laughs with them. That particular dinner, the extended family of aunts, uncles, and cousins were in attendance. And that’s when I met Francisco, his beautiful wife and baby and his siblings.  

Well it turns out that Francisco and his brother Samuel have just opened the sweetest little place called Cafeteria Juanita la Bendición. Named in honour of their mom. You can feel the love through the attention to detail in the place. Drips of ice cream and sparkles are painted on the walls and there is a comfortable seating area, with actual soft furnishings in the front of the place. A great place to have a seat while you enjoy a treat or a coffee. It’s also available to use for gatherings. They have a birthday party booked for this week, by people staying in the apartment next door to them who need a common space to celebrate. 

The Cafeteria is located on Guerrero just steps from the square. They will be open from 7:30 am to 11:00 pm. That evening we had ice cream cones, chocolate and strawberry cheesecake, and my brother promised to be back soon for a milk shake. My sister will be happy to see a place where she can get fries to go. I’m a fan of paletas, a Mexican popsicle of which they carry a variety.

But the show stopper is these dessert waffles. 

So I guess you could say that Francisco, Samuel and I share a family. They, by blood, and me, by friendship. Be sure to stop by to support this new business. And tell them their “Canadian cousin” Susan sent you. 

Kath’s quote: “Family is not an important thing, it is everything.” – Michael J. Fox

Love never fails.

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