March11
We showed Daughter #1 the sites of the south end of the island including places we’ve stayed, eaten at and visited before. D was in charge of finding us a place for a lunch break. We can’t tell you the name of the fabulous spot where we stopped-not because we are trying to keep it a scret but because it appraently did not have a name. This is what we love most about eating in Colonia’s -it feels as if someone has simply opened their living room window to the street and is serving you what they would also be serving their family. We can tell you that the place was next to the stationery store and across from the motorcycle repair shop, at the northern edge of town.
Three of us gobbled up giant toasted sandwiches: one with polo mole, another with chirozo sausage and a third “especiale” with both the above and ham as well. D parked the cart for a breathtaking view of the crashing waves on the east side of the island just around the corner from the shop and we ate in the shade of the cart. The 3 sandwiches were a total of 750 pesos ($2.50 each).
We zoomed home (or as fast as you can zoom in a golf cart) for showers and siestas and our next adventure. Sister #2 and hubbie always stay on the south west side of the island so that M can launch the inflatable kayak that he brings with him every year. In the mean time D shuttled back and forth into town to pick up the rest of the gang. We spent the late afternoon on the beach with pina coladas, peanuts and Maria’s pepitas.
Dinner would have been lovely on the beach but the mosquitoes sometime become pests after dark, so a long table was set up at the end of the bed and 3 siblings and an honourary sister sat there-it was like banguette seating in the best of restaurants. The rest of us pulled up an assortment of chairs for grilled chicken with mango salsa, herb tomato rice, carrots and toasted buns. All made on the bbq and a one burner hot plate. Sister # 2 is truly amazing. Sister #3 brought along a cole slaw which included sticks of jicama, tossed in a lime mayo and topped with more of Maria’s pepitas-oh baby!
For dessert, M had found out that the family that lives in the “Dalmatian” (painted white with black spots) house in Colonias runs a bakery and we had two amazing cakes. The chocolate was savoury and light at the same time, with custard cream seperating the layers and crushed oreo cookies on top.
Another perfect day on Isla-celebrating family, new and life long friends and the sweetness of life with food!
Kath’s quote: “My doctor told me to stop having intimate dinners for four. Unless there are three other people.” –Orson Welles
March9
Once an Isla holiday we rent a golf cart to scoot around the entire length of the island (5 miles). When we don’t have a cart, we walk and take inexpensive cabs; often times when the cabbie is actually driving a family member to work -you just hop in. When you think about it, it is really a very efficient way to run a business and better for the environment too. Sometimes we walk home after a particularly filling meal in Colonia, which is the less touristy town about a third of the way up the island. We did this the night before last after an amazing Jamaican barbecue at Mango Cafe.
There is construction on the main street of Medina so we wound around the through the streets of Centro before heading south. Our first stop was at our dear friend Hortenzia’s to buy some more beautiful bowls for Veektooria (as the Islanders love to say her name) already departed for the frozen tundra.
Next stop was the new liquado shop across from the graveyard. D declared that his Spanish was so good when he ordered Daughter #1’s fav drink, that the local behind the counter started up a conversation with him (I guess that didn’t last long). While the chocolate banana shake was being assembled -Maria the pepita lady walked by!
Maria is one of our favourite beach vendors-she sells roasted pepitas from her beautiful turquoise tray which she serves with a wedge of lime. We tucked them away for later but not before we kissed and hugged this precious lady. She told us that she would use her tip to buy herself a coca-cola. We found out later than she tells everyone the same thing-she must drink a few colas in a day!
We zoomed off again-to be continued……..
Kath’s quote: “The economy of the kitchen is only a counterpart, in its simplicity or complication, its rudeness or luxury, of the economy of the State. The perfectibility of cookery indicates the perfectibility of society. The progress of cookery is the progress of civilisation.”-Frederick W. Hackwood
March7
By guest blogger Margaret (note from Kath: long-time friend of honourary sister D).
One of the first places Andy and I went out for breakfast on Isla was a little place on Hidalgo-with a sign with “Crepes” written on it.
It wasn’t busy so we decided to sit at outside at a small table. Our waitress greeted us warmly and we ordered “cafe”. We learned her name is Gloria and although she doesn’t speak English fluently, she communicated easily with us. She was very warm, smiling and told us about her trip to Canada wich included Vancouver, Jasper, Calgary and Niagara Falls.
Andy ordered crepes with frest fruit. It covered the whole plate decorated with chocolate, icing sugar, whipped cream and a strawberry. The presentation was wonderful. Inside was piled with fresh fruit-delicious.
I chose an omelet with tomatoes and cheese, served with lettuce, cucumbers and tomato. It was also an extra large serving. The eggs were moist and not over-cooked-yum.
What a relaxing way to start the day on Isla! Scrumptuous food and coffee served by Gloria (with smiles) at a very resonable price. We have resturned for another breakfast since and if Gloria sees us passing by she is sure to yell “Hola”. We recommend Crepes on Hildalgo (close to the square).
Kath’s quote:“…sprinkled with sugar and eaten hot, they form an exquisite dish. They have a golden hue and are tempting to eat. Thin and transparent like muslin, their edges are trimmed to resemble fine lace. They are so light that after a good dinner, a man from Agen is still willing to sample three or four dozen of them! Crêpes form an integral part of every family celebration. Served with white wine, they take pride of place on all joyful occasions.”-Anatole France
March5
As with many unfamiliar places, until I had been there (twice now) I just couldn’t picture its locale. One of the many reasons why Isla is so quaint is that addresses are more abut associations and relationships. This suffices in most cases, as you really only need an address for your first visit right? But gringas like me like to bring our ways of categorizing things from home with us when we travel, so here is Chuuk Kay’s address:
Calle 16 de Septiembre Lte. 14 Col. Electricistas.
Whether you ask a cabbie, wander around yourself, or navigate Laguna Macax by boat-find this place! You will have found a little oasis without the bustle of Hidalgo. My husband arrives today and I am picturing a little table in the sand for a cozy dinner before we go.
Yesterday we sat under the palapa and enjoyed the free wii fii. The food was amazing, which was no surprise, as Ventura the manager has run some of the best dining rooms on Isla.
We started with a mixed ceviche. I was appreciative of the tomatoes and red onions sliced into little slivers-it made scooping the fresh seafood onto a tortilla chip less precarious, as mine always has a way of toppling off and landing on my bosom.
Next came two lunch entrees which we shared-fish tacos and shrimp enchiladas.
Both were delicious but I was especially thrilled by the enchilada. The shrimp were sauteed with a bit of heat and tomatoes & peppers to create some oomph. But then the rolls were topped with a tomato cream which provided a delicious contrast.
We also plan on assembling the gang (there are over a dozen of us) and going back. Four of us were there last weekend and Javi can create a party atmosphere to make it feel like New Year’s eve at 4 o’clock on a Sunday afternoon. He and the full band (with no name) play a full range of favourites and requests, but their Mexican sets are my favourite.
Kath’s quote: “A world without tomatoes is like a string quartet without violins.”-Laurie Colwin
March2
I have been musing about food for over a year, but today is a first. I rarely have the opportunity to enjoy a fine meal and then have the time to write about it while the taste is this fresh in my mind.
I am crazy about the yogurt in Mexico-especially the banana, pear, peach, walnut variety that we have in the fridge right now. With one of the mini bananas sliced in and an extra crumbling of crunch on top-I am addicted to this breakfast.
So it takes a bit of coaxing to get me to break my routine but this morning we did. We arrived at Cafe Cito to find Sister #3 and an honourary sister just finishing up. Steamy cups of coffee were presented with little bowls of fruit salad. The eggs taste richer down here-perhaps it is from what the hens are fed. My eggs were served perfectly over easy with sauteed potatoes, onions and green peppers. A little basket of hot buns and toast are the cradle for the banana/coconut/pineapple jam. It looks a little bit like baby food and tastes extraordinary!
V had the Mexicana.
Richard ordered the Savanah-scrambled.
After breakfast we strolled through the market and now I am perched at my little desk with plans for another simply delicious meal ahead.
Kath’s quote: “I have had, in my time, memorable meals of scrambled eggs with fresh truffles, scrambled eggs with caviar and other glamorous things, but to me, there are few things as magnificent as scrambled eggs, pure and simple, perfectly cooked and perfectly seasoned.”-James Beard
Your love is like a rock.