The first year I visited the island in 2005, I dined at Faynes on Hidalgo.

It was Superbowl Sunday and they were broadcasting the game. I don’t remember anything about the food but I do remember that Paul McCartney sang “Hey Jude” at halftime. With a full turn of the wheel of time I was back at Fayne’s for dinner last evening and no matter what football game or half time show might have played last night, I will always remember the food. What glorious food!

We started with mussels fresh from the south of Mexico. They were juicy and tender and the sauce….was divine! Both Karen, my companion who had just arrived on the island and I agreed that you could drink the sublime roasted tomato and cream sauce and be happy for the rest of your life. Luckily the mussels were served with parmesan cheese toast to save us the embarrassment of lifting the bowl to our mouths. Potatoes also floated in the silky sauce and being a self-professed potato aficionado, I was delighted.

We were doubly blessed when Victor Castillo, one of the managers at Fayne’s appeared from the brand new restaurant La Adelita next door. He explained that Fayne’s features seafood and live rock music whereas the new restaurant was born to focus on regional dishes from all over Mexico and a softer music vibe.

He suggested that we try the Mochican Carnnitas. Let’s start with the pork. I thought it might have been a fattier cut like pork belly because there was a delicious amount of roasted fat which is what made the pork, along with a bit of salt during the confit process, perfection. Confit is actually a French word describing the procedure of roasting any meat in its own fat. It has long been a method to preserve the meat, but not in this case. The Carnitas (little meats) originate from the state of Mochica. With the exception of Fredy’s pork chop, it is now my favourite pork dish on the island. By the way, it is served with onion, cilantro, Mexican sauce, rice and corn tortillas which I didn’t even touch and still brought leftover pork home.

So maybe now you are thinking “well maybe we should visit La Adelita instead of Faynes”. If you did you would miss out on their Chef’s Special of a fish filet and sauteed shrimp with tri coloured peppers and ribbons of a dried guajillo chili, which I thought at first was a sun dried tomato (but that would be on another continent). The sauce of tomato and white wine was what made the dish. Well in truth, it was the generous inclusion of melted butter that endeared the sauce to me. I can’t give you any details of the fish or the shrimp except to say that in that sauce, it mattered little to me.

As you will note, I jumped right into describing the food, and missed sharing our special cocktails also from La Adelita. Karen was served a Mango Aguate-where avocado, coconut cream and mango (of course) was blended together producing dessert in a glass. It was rich and silky and I was tempted to get out a spoon.

My refreshing drink of mixed berries, lime, triple sec and Jamiaca tequila was also blended and then garnished with a slice of pink grapefruit which I rarely eat on the island. But the piece de resistance was the rosemary spear that also adorned the drink, and was set on fire! The sultry odour reminded me of another scent and I looked around to ensure that no one thought we were breaking the smoking ban.

We likely overstayed our welcome because the sidewalk became crowded with people waiting for a space to enjoy the live music, making Fayne’s a hotspot for both music and culinary deliciousness.

The moral of this story is that even if you expect one experience, keep an open mind and heart to enjoy another. I am so glad I revisted Fayne’s.

Kath’s quote. “The people who give you their food give you their heart.” – Cesar Chavez

Love never fails.

By Sister #3

I love the traditional food from all over Mexico that you can find on Isla Mujeres. But the reality is I’m here for two months and sometimes I just want a slice of pizza. When I’m alone on the island, ordering pizza leaves me with leftovers for days. But I’ve just discovered a great new place on Juarez between Madero and Morelos where I can get pizza by the slice.

Kath here: I have always admired the traditional painted Mexican building that the pizzeria is location in.

On this particular evening my siblings and I were planning to dine on the beach at sunset. So we decided to pick up pizza and refreshments to take for our picnic.

Upon entering IL Pomodorino, we were greeted by the friendly staff who offered us a free sample of Margherita pizza while we considered our options. This bite confirmed that the pizza crust was crispy and the red sauce was well balanced. Brenda helped us make our selection. We opted to order by the slice. Each slice is generous and four slices was enough to feed the four of us. At only 80 pesos a slice it was good value. We cut each slice into four portions so we could each enjoy the variety.

You can order an entire pizza if you wish, the round thin crust, or a slightly thicker rectangular one. The menu is extensive with 26 options featuring red sauce and an additional six with white sauce.

There were many pizzas on display so we selected the Hawaiian, a pepperoni, an Italian sausage with red onion, and the Caprese, with pesto and cherry tomatoes.

Our selections were brought up to piping hot in the wood-fire pizza oven and packed in a box for transport. We requested soft drinks and bottled water and headed to the beach.

There are some very inventive combinations on offer. I was intrigued by the Raffinata, a white sauce pizza with blue cheese, pear, nuts, honey, and arugula. Perhaps next time.

If you are like me and like to look through the menu before you visit a restaurant, take note that IL Pomodorino’s menu is in Spanish. Once you’re at the restaurant the staff have great English.

So here are some words that may help make the menu easier for you.

Ajo – garlic
Acietuna – olives
Albahaca – basil
Anchoa – anchovies
Atun – tuna
Berenjena – eggplant
Calabaza – zucchini
Cebolla – onion
Champiñón – mushroom
Espinaca – spinach
Jamón pavo – turkey ham
Nuez – nuts
Piniento – pepper
Queso azur – blue cheese
Salchicha – hotdog
Tocino – bacon

For the hours of the restaurant as well as the extensive menu, check out www.mapchick.com. The best money you will ever spend.

Kath’s quote: “You better cut the pizza in four pieces because I’m not hungry enough to eat six“.– Yogi Berra.

Love never fails.

Criss Medina is from a family that goes back many generations in Isla Mujeres. We first met when I visited one of her restaurants in Centro. Riconcito Kahlo and a couple spin off concepts have moved locations a few times, but I think where they having landed, the previous Sesso Locos, is the ideal spot for them to put down permanent roots.

There is something about Riconcito Khalo that reminds me that life is beautiful. The walls are filled with colourful art, full of flowers and lovely images of Frieda Kahlo, a Mexican icon. The ambience is cheerful yet sophisticated and matches the vibrant nature of the women who run it.

Criss has handed the reigns of the establishment to daughter Dani who is an absolute natural at hospitality. While her smile lights up the room, her attentive nature leaves you feeling very welcome. 

The evening we were there the live music was smooth and sultry. Cindy Lu provides jazz and blues every Friday evening. This week she was joined by Walter Fischbacher and Elisabeth Lohninger who made a stop in Isla before setting out on a European tour. 

I was in the mood for something cold and refreshing sans alcohol and their lemonada was just perfect. Icy cold, lemony and not too sweet. Like a few other restaurants I’ve experienced on Isla RK serve “botanas”, small plates of snacks to enjoy with your drink as you wait for the food. We munched on a small bowl of popcorn and shelled some salted peanuts which helped keep our hunger at bay. 

We decided to order one decadent dish and one on the lighter side. The first was the quesabirrias for which Riconcito Khalo is famous. I first tried them two years ago and couldn’t wait to have them again. Crunchy tacos with melted cheese and pulled beef that has been slow cooked and is chuck-full of flavour. And if that wasn’t enough, it’s served with a bowl of broth made using the drippings of the beef as its base.

You add chopped red onion and cilantro and a squeeze of lime to the broth and then dip your tacos in like a Mexican beef dip. After you are done, you can finish the broth as a soup. 

Our lighter dish was the aguachile suggested by Dani. Both my sis and I love ceviche so we were pretty sure this would be a hit. It was fantastic. We ordered a mild heat level. The shrimp that is cured in lime juice was tender and sweet. The cucumber, onion, and avocado slices all came together as a perfect dish to eat on tortilla chips. 

I look forward to many a meal and evening of excellent music at Riconcito Khalo. And especially to spending more time with the delightful Criss Medina and her family. 

Riconcito Kahlo is located on Medina next to Green Verde. For menu and hours check out www.mapchicks.com. Best money you will ever spend.

Kath’s quote: “Feet, what do I need you for when I have wings to fly?” — Frida Kahlo

Love never fails.

Written by Sister #3

I was joining my sister for dinner the other night and we decided to visit Kokonuts on Hidalgo as Sylvia of Sardinian Smile is now the new manager of Kokonuts. 

It’s a place I have always wanted to try and a favourite of my sister’s as it reminds her of her trips to Italy. I’m hoping to travel to Italy this year, and while I’m not likely to make it to the island of Sardinia, I’m anxious to soak up all things Italian as I dream about my trip. Owner Silvia shares her family’s traditional Sardinian dishes along with a variety of other selections that highlight the fresh products available on the island. 

Upon arrival we were greeted by Luciano who was a wonderful host. The set up of Kokonuts isn’t exactly the vibe you would expect for this fine Italian establishment. Inside feels like a bar with video screens and flashing lights. but we selected a table on the street to soak up the energy of Hidalgo.  The live music of Jesús Campuzano adding to our experience. We were grateful that Sylvia and her staff amalgamated with Kokonuts so we could still experience their food. 

We settled in with two-for-one mojitos that were a refreshing cocktail to start the evening.  We had a couple of appetizers recommended by Sylvia.

The crab cakes were crispy on the outside, tender inside and full of crab flavour. They didn’t need the tartar sauce but it was so yum that I ended up eating some of it with the cakes.

The pulpo a la gallega was amazing. A traditional dish from Galicia it reminded me of the tapas we ate in Spain. Tender chunks of locally caught octopus on tender potato slices, topped with olive oil and paprika. We added a kiss of salt to bring out its full flavour.

For our main we selected their lasagna, made with bolognese and béchamel sauces, it was rich and melt-in-your mouth.

But my favourite dish of the night was the ensalada Kokonuts, a romaine and cucumber salad with slices of crisp Granny Smith apple and chunks of mango. Topped with candied walnuts and perfectly seasoned shrimp. I will be back for that salad very soon. Served with scrumptious homemade buns it was simply perfection. 

If you need info about their hours, location and menu, please feel free to check out www.mapchicks.com

Kath’s quote: “This land resembles no other place. Sardinia is something else. Enchanting spaces and distances to travel-nothing finished, nothing definitive. It is like freedom itself.“-David Herbert Lawrence, Sea and Sardinia, 1921

Love never fails.

Upon our arrival at The Point, we were greeted at the door by a couple of handsome gentlemen who pointed out that we might want to sit in the garden instead of at the bar. It was the perfect suggestion as it was cooler and less noisy. Their names were Axel and Axael, of all things.

I wish I had remembered to take a photo of the beautiful garden setting. The restaurant is between Grill Garden and North Garden, and is in the vicinity of the pool of one of the nearby hotels.

Special martinis were suggested as a place to start our lovely evening. We chose the pina colada martini with a generous garnish of sweetened coconut and once we had shared it, selected another tropical one with natural secretions from watermelon and pineapple. Could you imagine the patience required to create a libation from juice secretions? This would be the task of beautiful Natalie the mixologist.

Our food service commenced with the house guacamole. I was intrigued by the refreshing taste and learned from Axel (the manager/server) that it was made with a secret ingredient. A graduate of Tourism and Hospitality Management, he elaborated: “not everyone likes the taste of cilantro”. I know this for a fact because even though I love it, I know of people who not only dislike it, they abhor it! The secret ingredient? Fresh mint!

When it came time to order dinner we needed assistance. We knew we wanted fish. They had fresh grouper in the house. Alex explained their commitment to fresh fish and the lengths that they will go to ensure that it is served at its peak taste. Chef Lalo can do a variety of ceviche dishes but because they spoke so highly about their grouper, we tried grouper ceviche. That is the dish photographed above. It is made with julienned strips of cucumber, red onion and cucumber but what put the dish over the top were the ribbons of mango. The grouper had been cut into the same delicate strips. I coaxed my friend to try it, and although she is not a ceviche fan, she was pleasantly surprised by how much she enjoyed it. Me, on the other hand, loved everything about the recipe and heartedly scooped it up with the generous supply of tortilla strips. (I finished eating the dish last evening as my late night supper and it was just as great).

We also requested a cooked order of the grouper. The fish absolutely sparkled in our mouths. Simply prepared in butter, pepper corns and capers, it was perched upon a medley of grilled sweet peppers. The chef finished the dish with a squeeze of lime which I would normally have appreciated, except the taste came too close to the ceviche. The leftovers are waiting in my apartment fridge for my sister in law who has been on the island for a week and has not yet eaten fresh fish.

The staff were diligent in asking us if we would like more libations. We actually turned down their offerings of tequila shots!

To ice the cake of our evening, we were offered a grilled fruit. We chose the pineapple and after they had skewered it and put it over a flame, it was carved at our table. There was a simple sprinkling of cinnamon and it did not encumber our walk home as some final dishes do.

If you get a chance to look for and visit The Point, do so. I come to the island for fresh, simply prepared, food. It is an art for a chef to have the knowledge of when enough is enough (with cooking, seasoning and ingredients) and Chef Lalo and his team more than delivered!

If you would like more details about hours, location and menu check out checkout www.mapchicksapp.com.

Kath’s quote: “Cooking is like love. It should be entered into with abandon or not at all“. – Harriet van Horne

Love never fails.