March23
Sister # 3: “While the traditional regional cuisine on Isla Mujeres is amazing, there is also a huge variety of fare available because people from around the world have discovered this little Island and now call it home.
March 2010
Olivia’s Israeli owner/operators offer a nice variety of good Mediterranean food including moussaka and kebab.”
Added by Kathryne: We were so excited to try Olivia’s in March 2008, that we accepted a table right in front of the restaurant’s open kitchen. The result was that we were engulfed by the smoke from the open fire. This did not dampen our appreciation of their well made mojitos or carefully prepared food. We tried their spanakopita, moussaka and Moroccan fish on couscous.
Moroccan Fish
In February 2009 we were fortunate to make a reservation for the best table in the house. There is a beautiful, large square table at the rear of the restaurant which is under a thatched canopy where enjoyed another lovely dinner .
Sisters 1-3 Under the Palapa
On my next visit, I intend to try their Shawarma. This was one of my favourite meals when I travelled to Israel a decade ago. I still recall the glistening juices as the meat portion was shaved off of the rotating spit. We had stopped at a roadside diner outside of Jerusalem. Their version was served with crunchy veggies and a variety of sauces-the memory of the taste is still very vivid.
Kath’s Quote: “Don’t take a butcher’s advice on how to cook meat. If he knew, he’d be a chef.” -Andy Rooney
March17
Each year we gather on Isla Mujeres for a couple of weeks in the sun and sand as an escape from the snow and cold of Winnipeg. What started as a week away for the three sisters has turned into a significantly larger gathering. Other family members and friends have joined us each year and we continue to make great friends with people we meet on the island.
Whenever we meet someone new or are preparing friends for a first time trip, we spend a significant amount of time discussing the food. By now readers of Kathryne’s blog can see that our family’s life revolves around food. However it is not our preoccupation with food that causes our obsession with the food of Isla, it’s the food itself. Ask anyone who has spent any time on this jewel of an Island and they will tell you that the food is as magnificent as the beaches and as lovely as the people.
This 5 mile long island is made up of sand and coral and salt water lagoons dominate a big part of its land mass, leaving little room for agriculture. Yesterday our new friends Jeff and Kathy from Minneapolis told us they saw a cow, but I myself have yet to see any animals except beach dogs, street cats, iguana, geckos and the occasional roaster. So you would think that this little island whose main industry is fishing would only be able to boast about delicious fish and seafood, but you would be amazed at the food offered up here.
March9
Palms on Isla Mujeres
A weekend tradition for us when we are on Isla Mujeres is lunch from the Sunday Rib Man. This talented cook (and mighty fine dancer) serves the best ribs around on Saturdays as well. But we’ve been ordering from his simple tienda since 2005 when Sunday was his only day of operation and the name has stuck. The first time I tasted his ribs I was staying at Suites Los Arcos around the corner on Hidalgo. The helpful staff at the front desk offered to fetch them for me when they knew that I was going to be away from Centro on a day excursion. This is one of the many kind gestures made by the wonderful residents of the little Island.
So the name is one contradiction in terms and here’s another-we don’t actually order his ribs but his boneless pork that he adeptly chops into strips so that they appear to be ribs. The strips fit perfectly into the stack of mini tortillas that he serves with every order. The other fixings include a cole slaw, a broiled white onion and a couple of sauces; along with the customary lime of course.
I don’t know what size the order was in this picture captured on a previous trip, but recently we ordered a kilo for $180 pesos. Four of us ate til our heart’s content for approximately $4.50 per person.
Sunday Rib Man Ribs
We don’t know what he marinates them in or what he adds while they are cooking on the open fire, we only know that they are the most delicious ribs on Isla.
The Sunday Rib Man is located near the corner of Matamoros and Rueda Medina in Centro on Isla Mujeres. There is no sign…just use your nose to locate the smoke. If you are there on a daytrip it is very close to the ferry.
Kath’s quote: “Never eat more than you can lift.” Miss Piggy
February22
Maria March 2010
I live in the heart of sunflower country and they are my favourite “summer at the beach” snack. But, my favourite “winter at the beach snack” are pepitas!
Maria-the Pepita Lady
Maria is the primary reason why I love pepitas so dearly. Maria lives on Isla Mujeres and walks the beach daily (weather permitting) selling her product. She has an uncanny sense of timing-just when you have ordered a frosty Sol and are thinking that you might just be getting a little bit peckish, Maria will stroll along. Her skin is well weathered and crinkles up when she smiles in recognition of you. With your permission, she lovingly squeezes a wedge of lime over your pepita snack. She will stop for a little chat and then continue on her way-leaving us to wonder how she manages to wade through the heavy sand every day.
North Beach-Isla Mujeres
In my mind no one will ever be able to exactly duplicate the taste of Maria’s pepitas. As taste is a multi-sensory experience for me-it also has to do with the sights, sounds and feelings of contenment that I enjoy whenever I am on Isla Mujeres.
BUT Sister #2 has made a very good attempt at recreating the recipe. With her permission, I share it here:
Pepitas
3 cups hulled pumpkin seeds
3 tbsp canola oil
1 tbsp chili powder
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp salt
1 lime
Method
Preheat over to 300ºF. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper or a silpat. Combine oil, chili powder, cumin and salt, stir well. Add pumpkin seeds and toss to coat. Spread seeds on cookie sheet in a single layer. Roast for 25 minutes, until seeds are lightly browned and crunchy. Shake or stir seeds occasionally for even cooking. Be sure to check frequently during the last few minutes to avoid over cooking. Let seeds cool slightly before serving. Serve with wedges of lime which can be squeezed over top of the warm seeds. Seeds can be stored in an airtight jar for 1 week at room temperature or 1 month in the fridge (as if there are ever any left). Makes 3 cups.
Kath’s quote: “Too much work, and no vacation, deserves at least a small libation. So hail! my friends, and raise your glasses; work’s the curse of the drinking classes.”-Oscar Wilde
February1
About this time of year my heart really starts yearning for a walk along the beach of Lake Winnipeg. People that know me really well, can see that I am lying here. I am yearning for a walk along the beach of the Is la Mujeres but this year that is not to be. As I am a practicalist, I just switch up a couple of details in my head-Lake Winnipeg it is.
ahh Isla
If you’ve never tasted Winnipeg Goldeye-you deserve to give yourself the treat. It is a oilier and more solid fish than salmon and is fabulous in your favourite smoke salmon appetizer recipes. We’ve also started enjoying White Bass from the lake. It is easier to catch seems more plentiful these days. Dusted in flour and fried in butter-we eat it by the basketful on the deck with ice cold beer. There’s usually a horseshoe or boccie tournament going on.
But the prize catch of Lake Winnipeg is Pickerel. Just caught pickerel actually comes alive and dances in your mouth. I kid you not-that is the most accurate way that I can describe it. My family loves it very simply prepared but I’ve enjoyed many other versions over the years including fried in crumbled Old Dutch potato chips!
The Lobby's Pickerel and Chips
There are a number of Grand Beach area restaurants that do pickerel very well. One of our favourites is the Idyl Thyme where we often celebrate our September wedding anniversary. In Winnipeg, I’ve loved nut crusted pickerel at Restaurant Dubrovnik’s and panko crusted at The Lobby on York.
Fishing Lake Winnipeg at Sunset
The best place to buy just caught pickerel is from a local bootlegger but because I will try not to promote any illicit activities, I will not sketch any details here. There are also multiple Gimli Fish locations in Winnipeg. Our favourite is the heart of Winnipeg’s North End at Dufferin and McGregor which we always include when we a do a North End Shopping Spree. I’ll include all of our stops in another entry. The NE Gimli Fish shop is a corner store-literally. When you walk in you are struck by the aroma of fish in a very pleasant way. Perhaps it is made more pleasant by all of the helpful faces of the females behind the counter. We buy our Panko flakes here as well as mixed seafood for “fruita de mare” recipes and everyone once in a while a treat of pickerel cheeks. Also the only Winnipeg store that I know of that sells frog legs. Neechi Foods is another great place to experience and pick up pickerel.
On this night ever cast produced a catch
The cheek is the little nugget of flesh that can be popped out when your are filletting a pickerel (demonstrated in this U tube link). I have personally never had this honour but I understand it to be so. We sautee them in lemon and butter and fresh dill. They are the close to a small scallop in texture and the taste is totoally unique. If you don’t live in Winnipeg-come visit us in the summer. If you do-eat lots of pickerel…it is excellent for your health and the hard working fishermen of Lake Winnipeg will thank you.